Chiang Rai is the main jumping-off point for the Golden Triangle, where Thailand’s northernmost border meets with Laos and Myanmar. As such, it is a popular base for excursions to hill tribe villages, rafting tours and trekking trips through the jungle.

Like a smaller (and quieter) version of Chiang Mai, it’s also well endowed with hotels and restaurants, so makes a good place to rest up for a few days.

Chiang Rai was founded in 1262 by King Mengrai and became the very first capital of the Kingdom of Lanna, which means ‘a Million Rice Fields’. It was later controlled by the Burmese and not reintegrated into Thailand until 1786. The town presents a wealth of history and culture, along with fascinating surroundings, and thus is a captivating destination to visit.

Dating back to 1385, Wat Phra Singh houses a copy of the Phra Singh image from its namesake in Chiang Mai, while nearby Wat Phra Kaew houses a copy of the Emerald Buddha image, now in Bangkok, that is the country’s most revered Buddha image. Both temples feature some beautiful decorations. Another interesting temple is Wat Phra That Doi Chom Tong, which sits on top of a low hill and is home to Chiang Rai’s City Pillar, which was re-dedicated in 1988 and in fact consists of a cluster of pillars around a central pillar on a pedestal.

Without a doubt, the city’s most striking temple is Wat Rong Khun, located about 13km south of the center. More an ongoing work of art than a place for worship, it is the brainchild of local artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, who has also embellished one of the city’s two clock tower to look like some alien monster.

Other popular attractions in Chiang Rai are the Night Bazaar, set in the center of town, and the Walking Street, which takes place on Thanalai Road each Saturday evening. Flanking narrow streets, the stalls in the Night Bazaar sell wonderful silks, cotton clothing, cheap jewelry and all kinds of food, including fried insects. There are also numerous booths owned by the tribal people who offer old coins, as well as jackets, shawls and bags they have made themselves. The Hilltribe Museum and Education Center provides a further insight into the culture of the six main tribes.

A few kilometers to the west of town, the Mae Fa Luang Arts & Cultural Park is well worth a visit to see some superb examples of Lanna architecture and sculpture, set in a tranquil park with lily-smothered ponds.

Out of town, trekking tours generally combine bamboo rafting, elephant riding, and visits to the hill tribe villages of the Akha, Karen, Lisu and Lahu, each demonstrating their unique cultures and costumes. Trips to the Mekong River and the Golden Triangle are also an option, with Tachilek, the Burmese border town, being just an hour’s drive away. If you just need a quick adrenalin fix, head out to Boomerang, just 2km out of town, for rock climbing and zip lining.

Chiang Rai experiences a fresh and sunny cool season from November to February, which is definitely the best time to visit if you plan on trekking in the hills. During this season humidity is also lower, making it more comfortable for visitors from temperate climates.

The hot season, from March to June, is not only hot but humid as well, so choosing an air-conditioned room is advisable. From July to October, skies are overcast, keeping the temperatures down, and tropical storms are frequent, so it is not the best time to be out trekking.

Though the majority of foreign visitors to Chiang Rai are just passing through on their way to the Golden Triangle, there are several interesting sights in and around town, as well as plenty of eating and sleeping options, so that you could spend a pleasant few days just hanging out here, perhaps as an alternative to Chiang Mai.

As in all of Thailand, it is the glittering temples that catch the eye, and some of those worth tracking down are Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Phra That Doi Chom Thong, Wat Phra Singh and Wat Jed Yod. However, the most striking is Wat Rong Khun, otherwise known as the White Temple, several kilometers south of town.

To see some exquisite examples of Lanna architecture and sculpture, make your way to the Rai Mae Fah Luang to the west of town, and if you’d like to learn more about the various hill tribes that live in the region, drop by the Hilltribe Museum and Education Center, which is right in the city center.

Since the traffic in Chiang Rai is fairly light and the terrain is largely flat, a good way to explore the town and its immediate surroundings is by rented bicycle. When you’re ready to explore the rest of the province, however, it’s time to hire a two- or four-wheel vehicle with or without driver, and head for the hills!

Chiang Rai Airport is a 1 hour, 30 minute flight from Bangkok or a 45-minute flight from Chiang Mai; the airport is 8km north of the city. You can also get a train from Bangkok to Lampang (11 hours) or Chiang Mai (13 hours) and from there a bus straight to Chiang Rai (3 hours, 30 minutes). Buses depart hourly from Bangkok’s Mor Chit station to Chiang Rai, the 800-kilometer journey taking 10 to 11 hours. The long-distance bus station is now about 7km south of the city center.

Chiang Rai’s city center is extremely compact, so it’s convenient to walk around, and many hotels located outside the center offer regular shuttle buses into town, so you might get away without paying for transport.

However, some of the town’s temples, such as Wat Phra That Doi Chom Tong, are a bit of a trek from the center and tricky to find, so you might find yourself calling on the service of a tuk-tuk or motorbike taxi from time to time. There are no metered taxis in town, so if you need to organize transport to out-of-town destinations, explain your plans to the hotel concierge or receptionist (or guest house owner), who will try to negotiate a good deal for you.

Chiang Rai offers a great range of accommodation, from cheap dorms to luxury resorts where a room costs hundreds of dollars a night. If you are arriving here after spending time on the beach at Ko Samui or Phuket, or in Bangkok, you are in for a pleasant surprise as you will find that rates are much cheaper here than at other tourist destinations in the country.

Most of the top-end resorts are located along the banks of the Kok River or in outlying areas, but most of them lay on shuttle services to allow guests to get in and out of town easily. The majority of budget options are clustered around Phaholyothin Road or Jed Yod Road in the city center, from where it’s easy to walk to most places of interest. Several mid-range options scattered around town round out the picture, offering comfortable lodgings with all basic amenities at very affordable prices.

As with sleeping, eating presents no problems in Chiang Rai. It may be a small city, but Chiang Rai has everything from street food stalls specializing in a single dish to fancy restaurants that serve top-class Thai and international fare. If you’re exhausted after a busy day’s sightseeing, all top-end hotels have adequate restaurants, though this is not the case with cheaper places. All places recommended below are stand-alone restaurants.

If you can’t make up your mind where to eat, you could do worse than take a stroll down Phaholyothin Road, where you’ll find plenty of restaurants offering either standard Thai cuisine or Western food such as pizzas, and in the evening the food court in the Night Bazaar, just off Phaholyothin Road, is another happy hunting ground for adventurous eaters.

Chiang Rai’s nightlife depends very much on the season and the number of tourists in town; in high season there are plenty of bars, especially along Jed Yod Road, that stay open way into the night, but in low season it’s a different story, and bar owners close early when they have little or no custom.

Most of this nightlife takes the form of drinking and chatting in simple bars where recorded music is played in the background, though a few places feature live music, especially at weekends.

For many visitors, nightlife in Chiang Rai involves a stroll through the Night Bazaar shopping for souvenirs, then heading back to their hotel ready for an early start the next day.

Since Chiang Rai is the jumping-off point for trekking to hilltribe villages, it’s not surprising that the most distinctive souvenirs on offer are handicrafts and textiles made by the different ethnic groups that populate the region.

Apart from the Handicrafts shop in the Hilltribe Museum and Education Center on Thanalai Road, the best places to look for gifts are in the Night Bazaar, which runs east off of Phaholyothin Road in the city center, or along Thanalai Road, which becomes a Walking Street lined with stalls on a Saturday evening.

  • Worth it? Definitely, especially when you are on vacation in Chiang Mai.
  • What to do: visit temples, go trekking, learn about Lanna culture.
  • Best time to go: during the dry season from November to February.
  • How long? Three days to one week.