Sen Monorom is the wild east town of Cambodia, though the sealed road to town and the popularity of Cambodia as a tourist destination is bringing rapid changes.
Culturally different from any other place in Cambodia, the area features numerous tribal communities who were essentially left alone for centuries if not millennia. While the area was of virtually no interest to the Khmers of Angkor, it was a stronghold of the Khmer Rouge for a number of years, and is now of utmost importance to the current Cambodian government, who have granted contracts to several international mining organizations.
Fortunately, you benefit from the new road and will otherwise be overwhelmed at how different the terrain and the people are here. The hill tribes who are masters of this frontier will probably find you as much of an attraction as they and their interesting houses, clothing, and countryside are to you!
The slow pace of life here is infectious, which is fortunate, as there isn’t much to do other than visit waterfalls, play with elephants, and enjoy nature. So bring your swim suit for the pools at the waterfalls, find your balance on the back of an elephant, and enjoy the beauty around you.
Sen Monorom is popular with domestic tourists because of its relatively cool climate. Local travel agencies call it the ‘Switzerland of Cambodia’ though that’s certainly on overstatement. In any case, the rolling hills and cool breezes are a refreshing change from the climate at lower elevations.
Orientation
Since the road was finished the small town of Sen Monorom has gained greater access to goods and services without corrupting the remote feel and leaning toward simplicity. The wild-east town has mostly budget options as well as more upscale comforts nestled in its rolling hills. The average traveler will feel like they have reasonable access to the basics. Communication is also high with respect to the frequency you encounter someone who speaks English or is apt at non-verbal communication.
In Sen Monorom town, most guesthouses and hotels can arrange tours of varying quality, a bank has an ATM machine that may work but shouldn’t be assumed to, and a tourism office that could provide some useful information is likely to be closed.
Despite the remoteness of the province, 3G on your ipad or smartphone is the way to go for internet in Mondulkiri. Pre-paid credits can be bought in town (provided you already have a local SIM card). The internet at Bananas is free with purchase; while there is only one computer and no wifi, the connection is relatively quick. Other wifi spots are the English schools on Main Street and Green Restaurant. At the time of this writing Green charged one dollar an hour and you had to use their PCs unless you are capable of tweaking your IP address. Nature Lodge has a computer you may use and occasionally has wifi available for its guests.
Where to Go
- Elephant Valley Project: A unique conservation project offering ethical elephant encounters in a natural habitat, focused on rehabilitation and care.
- Mondulkiri Coffee Plantation: Discover the flavors of Cambodia’s highland coffee at this plantation, where visitors can learn about coffee production and enjoy tastings.
- Bou Sra Waterfall: One of Cambodia’s largest and most beautiful waterfalls, featuring multi-tiered cascades in a serene forested setting.
- Phnom Bai Chuw: A scenic hilltop offering panoramic views of Mondulkiri’s rolling hills and lush forests, ideal for hiking and photography.
- Rum Near Waterfall: A tranquil waterfall surrounded by nature, offering a peaceful escape and a refreshing dip for visitors.
- Monorom Waterfall: A picturesque waterfall located near Sen Monorom, perfect for a quick visit to enjoy the natural beauty of Mondulkiri.
Outside Town
- Phnom Prich Sanctuary: A vast wildlife sanctuary home to rare species like elephants, leopards, and gibbons, ideal for eco-tourism and wildlife enthusiasts.
- Pahlung Village - Pu Lung Village: A traditional hill tribe village offering a glimpse into the culture and lifestyle of the indigenous Bunong people.
- Phnom Nam Lear Sanctuary: A protected area known for its dense forests, diverse wildlife, and opportunities for trekking and nature exploration.
When to Go
Mondulkiri has a ‘dry season’ that lasts from November to May and a ‘rainy season’ that runs from June to October. Unlike most areas of Cambodia, which are either hot or hotter, depending on the time of year, Mondulkiri has a ‘winter’ thanks to its mountainous elevation. Temperatures in Mondulkiri drop into the 40’s (F) in winter so appropriate clothing is required.
The hottest time of the year in Mondulkiri is toward the end of the dry season, when daytime temperatures can be dangerously hot. During the wet season, although copious amounts of rain are dumped on Mondulkiri with monotonous regularity, rainstorms and thunderstorms often last just one or two hours in the afternoon. In dry season there can be horrible dust storms, so if you aren’t keen on being covered in red dust, you should visit towards the end of the rainy season (Oct-Nov) when dust is less a problem, the waterfalls are spectacular, and its not too cold yet.
While monsoon rains may provide respite from the intense Cambodian sun, torrential rains wreak havoc on rural dirt roads, which become muddy morasses; travel to areas serviced by these roads, such as the road between Sen Monorom and Ban Lung, Ratanakiri, can become difficult to impossible in the monsoon season months (June-October) for those without 4-wheel drive vehicles or off-road motorcycles.
Things to Do
Sen Monorom is a fantastic town to get away from it all and enjoy some of the most scenic natural beauty in Cambodia. That said, you need to spend nearly a full day getting here along a “one way road” to the Middle of Somewhere. Waterfalls, Elephant Valley Project, coffee, mountain biking, trekking, and visiting hill tribes are a few of the attractions and activities available. You might also simply enjoy some quiet solitude, just rejuvenating in a hammock, reading a good book and enjoying the cooler weather of this unique Cambodian province.
Mondulkiri is known for it’s beautiful waterfalls, some of which are accessible easily from Sen Monorom. Monorom Waterfall is the closest to town, but because it is easy to get lost it is recommended that you hire a local guide (or motodop driver) to take you there. Other waterfalls that are further away include Bou Sra Walerfall, Rum Near Waterfall, and Phnom Bai Falls.
Those looking to have an elephant experience should visit the Elephant Valley Project, which hosts day-trippers, overnight guests, and volunteers to care for their happy stable of pachyderms. You can enquire at Middle of Somewhere cafe, which also works with some of the local ethic tribes to provide jobs for their youth, who will take you on a motorbike to visit their villages. The different tribes have quite different homes, clothing, and language, so you could easily spend a couple days checking out the various groups that live in the province.
Bicycles are available to rent through most guesthouses and are a great way to explore the town, especially since Mondulkiri is notably cooler than most of the Cambodia. In fact, the climate is great for growing coffee, and there is a Mondulkiri Coffee Plantation, which also makes a fun outing.
Beyond Town
Mondulkiri is an enormous province, but it generally lacks infrastructure other than the roads that were built by the mining companies. Consequently, some of the ethic villages and protected wildlife areas are extremely difficult to get to. Ask Jack (at Elephant Valley Project or Bill (at Middle of Somewhere) how you might do some off-the-beaten path adventuring.
Getting There
Getting to Sen Monorom is not as hard as it used to be since they finished the new road from Snoul. Still, it should be kept in time that the town is all the way near the Vietnam border. If going via Phnom Penh just know it will take all day to get there by bus, unless of course you decide to stay somewhere along the way, such as Kampong Cham for instance.
Realistically, you can probably arrange a trip to Sen Monorom from anywhere in Cambodia, but you are likely to have to reroute through Phnom Penh, unless you are traveling from the north, in which case you will transit in Kratie or Snoul. If you are planning a trip to Sen Monorom your best points of departure are Phnom Penh or Kratie.
To get to Sen Monorom, take a bus or mini bus from any provinces major city, or hire a private car though the fare depends on the city from which you are traveling. Avoid share taxis unless you are really small and don’t mind being squished for many hours.
Getting Around
Renting a mountain bike is a fun and eco-responsible way to get around, though the area is quite hilly and good rental bikes can be hard to come by. 100cc motorbikes can also be rented from most guesthouses, though you can also hire moto-taxis for one-way rides or all-day services (negotiable fares).
Always inspect motorbikes before renting and note any flaws to the person you are renting from, taking pictures if you want to avoid having to pay for damage you did not incur.
Where to Stay
Accommodation in Sen Monorom varies from clean, rustic, and charming guesthouses to moldy concrete behemoths. In this wild-east town you have options for semi-luxury in the countryside or your typical Khmer-style guest house near the town market; all at prices considerably lower than most anywhere else.
If you’re coming all the way to Mondulkiri, you’ll probably want to relax in what remains of the Eastern Plateau’s natural environment. There are a few places who understand that you are here to get away from it all. If thats not your thing, there are your typical city-style guesthouses available while you wait to get the heck out of Dodge.
Where to Eat
Sen Monorom has reasonably good Western and Khmer food, most of which is fresh, made to order, home-cooking. There are a few reliable go-to’s in the area (listed below) that are traveler friendly, all of which are accessible from central Sen Monorom by foot or a short bike/moto-ride away.
Be aware that some of the restaurants in town double as tour operators and will probably suggest their services to you while you are eating. If you want to use them, great; if not, then they will back off if you politely decline. There are a few other eateries that are more “miss” than “hit,” including a few near the airstrip, which have been known to overcharge foreigners.
Where to Party
Nightlife in Sen Monorom goes about as far as grabbing a beer with some friends at one of the local restaurants or, depending on where you are lodging, sitting around a bonfire or stargazing. One of the ultimate getaway-from-it-all’s in Cambodia, do not expect a party and club scene here.
Where to Shop
This town’s shopping scene really serves the people who live in Sen Monorom, including the small town market and the cell phone and motorbike repair shops that are near it. There are a few small offerings for sightseers who like window-shopping however: turn down one of the red-dirt side-streets off Main Street to explore further.
There are a few select shopping venues in Sen Monorom that sell locally woven cloth, organic jewelry, Mondulkiri coffee, and in case you are cold: beanies! Mini marts are reasonably well stocked (though you ought to bring your own adequate supply of mosquito repellent with DEET). Be sure to check the date on the wine bottles! They say wine gets better with age, but if you know anything about wine, you know this wine was better spent in its youth; cheaply spent.
The price for a hand-woven cloth wrap is usually listed at around $10USD; you can haggle a little, but realize that these products take time to make and constitute the entire income for some of those who weave them.
Coffee varies in price depending on whether you buy it from the plantations or the mini-marts.