East Bali

East Bali is the island’s quieter, drier end, where the land rises to Mount Agung, Bali’s highest and most sacred volcano, and drops to a coast of black-sand bays and shallow reefs. Visitor numbers are far below those of the south and of Ubud, and the pace is slower.

The region falls into a few distinct areas. In the highlands, the vast Batur caldera holds the rim villages of Batur and Kintamani, Lake Batur and the active cone of Gunung Batur, climbed for sunrise, along with the Bali Aga village of Trunyan. On Agung’s south-western slopes stands Pura Besakih, the island’s mother temple, and below it the terraced valley of Sidemen.

Along the south-facing coast, the old royal town of Semarapura (Klungkung) keeps the painted court pavilion of Kertha Gosa; Padangbai is the harbour for boats to Lombok and the islands; Candi Dasa is a low-key resort strip below the walled village of Tenganan; and Amlapura, capital of the former Karangasem kingdom, is flanked by the water palaces of Tirta Gangga and Taman Ujung.

The north-east coast is the most remote part of Bali and the best for underwater exploring: the bays of Amed have reefs a few strokes from shore, and Tulamben is built around the USAT Liberty Wreck.

Accommodation runs mostly to guesthouses, homestays and mid-range hotels, with a handful of upscale resorts on the coast and in the hills, and nightlife is minimal.

East Bali rewards travellers who venture beyond the beach, packing mountains, temples and traditional villages into a compact, unhurried region.

• Gunung Agung: Bali’s sacred volcano and highest peak, climbed at dawn for spectacular summit views.
• Pura Besakih: The island’s largest and holiest temple complex, on the slopes of Gunung Agung.
• Tirta Gangga: A royal water palace with tranquil pools and tiered fountains, set against mountains and rice terraces.
• Amlapura: The regional capital, with Balinese royal history, traditional markets and the nearby water palace and gardens of Taman Ujung.
• Sidemen: A serene rural valley of lush rice terraces and traditional weaving villages.
• Tulamben: A diving haven built around an accessible WWII shipwreck, the USAT Liberty Wreck.
• Amed: A relaxed coastal strip famed for diving and vibrant coral reefs.
• Tenganan: An ancient Bali Aga village preserving unique customs and double-ikat weaving.
• Padangbai: A small harbour town with a blue lagoon and the gateway to Lombok and the Gili Islands.
• Candi Dasa: A laid-back seaside town with snorkelling, holy caves and lagoon views.
• Pura Goa Lawah: A striking bat-cave temple with a fascinating spiritual atmosphere.
• Batur and Kintamani: Rim villages looking over Lake Batur and the active cone of Gunung Batur, the island’s favourite sunrise climb.
• Semarapura: The old royal capital of Klungkung, with the painted ceilings of the Kertha Gosa court pavilion and a busy market.

• Hire a local driver from Amlapura (Karangasem) to reach the coast and temples, as roads can be narrow and confusing.
• Visit the Tirta Gangga water palace early morning to avoid tour buses and catch the light on terraced pools.
• Respect temple protocols: sarongs or temple attire may be required at certain sites, and offerings are a constant presence.

The primary entry points are the provincial town of Amlapura (Karangasem) and the port/airport at Denpasar for longer transfers. From Denpasar or Ubud, hire a car or use intercity shuttle services toward Karangasem; expect 2-4 hour drives depending on traffic and destinations. Local minibuses and private drivers operate between major East Bali towns.