Battambang

Batdambang City was founded along the banks of the Stung Sangke (Sangke River) and nearly all of the town’s tourist attractions and facilities, including hotels, restaurants, ATMS, temples, and markets can be visited on foot, though bicycles are readily available and make exploring a bit easier and more enjoyable. As the second largest city in Cambodia, banks, phone and camera stores, and other businesses catering to the location population are centrally located and easily found.

Batdambang town is basically split in two by the Sangke River, which flows south-north through the town and eventually into the Tonle Sap Lake. The majority of hotels, restaurants, and shops are located on the western side of the river; the eastern side of the river is more residential, though there is a growing number of hotels and restaurants located along and just off the eastern riverfront.

psar-nat (the ‘meeting market’ or ‘central market’), is just north of the geographic center of the town on the western bank of the river. Streets 1, 2, and 3 (as well as streets 1.5 and 2.5) run parallel to the river, leading south from Psar Nat through the center of town. It is along these and the intersecting roads that most hotels, restaurants, and shops are found. The boat to/from Siem Reap and bus/taxi stations are located at various points just north of Psar Nat.

Other than the town’s markets, Buddhist temples, and a museum, the majority of Batdambang’s sights are upstream or downstream of the center of town; day trips to these sights are easily arranged through the tourism office or most hotels and can be visited via tuk-tuk or self-driven on a rental bicycle or motorbike. While its easy enough to procure transportation, you will rarely be bothered by motodop or tuk tuk drivers, as there are relatively few tourists in town, which is a plus; however, there isn’t a preponderance of boutique shops, massage parlors, or other tourist-oriented businesses either. If Phnom Penh is crowded, chaotic, and teeming with possibilities, Batdambang is a relaxing polar-opposite.

• Phare Ponleu Selpak: A unique arts program developed by children who were refugees during the civil war that features a world-renowned circus troupe.
• Battambang Museum: A decent collection of artifacts on display as well as information about culture and ecology.
• Battambang Governors Mansion: A monumental colonial building, designed by an Italian architect and built in 1907 for the last Siamese Governor of Batdambang.
• Psar Nat: Psar Nat is the main market in Batdambang town.
• Wat Damrei Saa: A peaceful temple featuring the iconic white elephant statues, offering a serene spiritual atmosphere.
• Wat Pipuhd: A historic pagoda showcasing intricate traditional Khmer architecture, perfect for cultural exploration.

Around Battambang

• Wat Phnom Banan: This Angkor Wat-style temple features a long flight of stairs up to temple ruins that have been converted into a Buddhist shrine.
• Wat Phnom Sampeau: This nearby hill contains Buddhist caves turned Khmer Rouge-era “killing caves”, a hilltop monastery, and nearby meditation retreat.
• Vipassana Meditation Center: A tranquil retreat offering immersive meditation courses for deep self-reflection and mental clarity.
• Wat Ek Phnom: Angkor Wat-style Wat Ek Phnom, a few miles out of town beyond charming rural communities, features both a modern Wat and the ruins of the ancient temple.
• Battambang Bamboo Train: These small, make-shift railway cars are as great a tourist experience as they are a useful transportation device for local villagers.
• Wat Somraoung Knong and Prasat Basseat: A charming Buddhist temple with an unfortunate history and a Angkor-era ruin.
• Wat Kor Village: “Ancient Houses” - A number of charming, 100 year-old wooden houses in the village of Wat Kor.
• Chan Thai Chhoeung Winery: Cambodia’s first vineyard and winery.
• Kamping Puoy: A reservoir built during the Khmer Rouge era that is now a popular swimming hole and picnic area.

Batdambang shares its tropical climate with the rest of Cambodia; a ‘dry season’ that lasts from November to May and a ‘rainy season’ that runs from June to October. Temperatures are relatively constant (i.e. hot) throughout the year but humidity can vary. There are times of the year that are noticeably cooler or hotter, and as is normal for a monsoon climate, times when heavy rain is nearly constant. Batdambang is fine to visit during most of the year, though the hottest months from March to May can be too hot for comfort.

Humidity and rainfall may vary through the year, but Batdambang is typically hot. Few visitors will experience something they would call cool. Temperatures in the day range throughout the year from above 100°F in the early afternoon to around 70°F at night.

The hottest time of the year in Batdambang is toward the end of the dry season, when daytime temperatures can be dangerously hot. During the wet season, although copious amounts of rain are dumped on Batdambang with monotonous regularity, rainstorms and thunderstorms often last just one or two hours in the afternoon.

One interesting feature of Batdambang weather has even incorporated itself into the local culture. As clouds accumulate in the humid Cambodian sky, locals wager on if, where, and how much it will rain, with graduated-cylinders positioned in various locations to gather the result! As in many parts of Cambodia, clouds may gather and rain may appear imminent but not a drop shall fall; other times, without 5 minutes warning, strong winds will blast into town followed by a short but torrential downfall. In the early months of the monsoon season (April/May) its best to be prepared; by June, you would be foolish not to be.

While Batdambang is Cambodia’s second largest city, its a bit farther down the list of places tourists choose to visit. Still, visitors who are interested in a more authentic Cambodian experience will enjoy Batdambang, which has enough sights to keep one occupied for a few days: within the town itself are a Batdambang Museum, a number of Wats in Batdambang, and a few historical buildings, including the Governor’s Mansion.

Batdambang features a number of relatively interesting Buddhist temples, both in the town and in the communities surrounding the main city. These active places of worship are important centers of spiritual practice and community association for different Batdambang neighborhoods and each has distinctive characteristics worth appreciating.

Wat Damrei Saa, the White Elephant Pagoda, is located one block behind the Battambang Museum in the southern part of town. There are a pair of white elephant statues outside the western entrance to the temple; on the eastern side of the temple there are a number of interesting statues.

Wat Pipuhd (aka Wat Piputiram) is located to the north of Psar Nat market, around which monks from the temple can be seen collecting alms in the early morning hours. The temple is one of the oldest in the city and features tranquil, shady grounds, though the temple lacks notable features for the typical visitor.

Along the eastern bank of the river there are a number of other important temples, Wat Sangker, Wat Pachhaa, Wat Kandal, Wat Borvil, and Wat Bo Knong, each of which has a number of interesting features, including some colonial-era buildings converted to Monk’s quarters.

Just outside town there are several attractions include Chan Thai Chhoeung Winery, and several Angkor-era temples, including Wat Ek Phnom and Phnom Banan. There are a number of attractions surrounding the town that can be visited via day-trips. For these attractions, the Tourist Information Center or your hotel front desk can assist you with planning or organizing any sightseeing. (See Around Batdambang)

One of the most unique activities in Battambang is a ride on the bamboo train: small, makeshift, motorized railway cars that locals use for transportation and tourists can ride for a few dollars. Another unique attraction is the circus, performed by students at Phare Ponleu Selpak.

The east side of the river is more of a residential neighborhood, with a number of colonial houses and temples facing the river; Battambang’s nicest park is also situated along the east bank of the Sangker River. Sunset is the best time for a walk through the park, when children play badminton, teenagers flirt, and women perform group aerobics.

Green Orange, a kayaking company just upstream (south) of Battambang offers pleasant river trips upon the Sangke River from their cafe located around 5 miles (8km) south of town.

If you aren’t looking to expend any energy, motorboat trips on the Sangker River are available for exploring the sights along the river. Prices for boats hired by the hour are negotiable and may vary on the size of your party and the size/quality of the boat. The pier for boating day-trips or voyages to Siem Reap is located just east of Psar Nat on the west bank of the Sangke River.

Cooking classes are available from Smoking Pot restaurant on Street 2 or 2.5. Classes are offered twice daily: in the morning and in the afternoon. $8 fee includes a recipe book, ingredients, and 3 dishes: 2 mains and 1 dessert or 3 mains - up to you!

A temple just outside Battambang offers 10 day meditation retreats: Vipassana Meditation Centre teaches Vipassana Meditation, a 2500 year old Indian meditation technique that requires 10 hours of meditation a day during a extended period with a strictly enforced code of silence. 10 day courses for both beginners and experienced practitioners include vegetarian meals and simple accommodation at a temple near Phnom Sampeu.

Soksabike is a social enterprise that takes visitors on responsible tourism-oriented bicycle rides around Battambang (a relaxed 30K day-trip to be precise). Participants learn about Cambodian culture and traditions with an aim towards making a positive impact on local communities and economy (www.soksabike.com).

Most people fly into Phnom Penh or Siem Reap international airports and then travel to Batdambang via bus, car, or boat (Phnom Penh: 4-5 hours; Siem Reap 3 hours-car/bus, 8-10 hours-boat). As Batdambang is located along the road between Phnom Penh and the Thai border, visitors traveling this route by land can easily stop in the city for a day or two in transit (Thai Border: 2 hours).

There is no operational airport in Batdambang and the train that once traveled to and from Phnom Penh, a service that was painfully slow because of the poor condition of the rail-line, is no longer in service.

Batdambang, which is the second largest city in Cambodia, is located along National Road No.5 between Thailand and Phnom Penh, a heavily trafficked route that is arguably the best road in Cambodia. Consequently, the route is serviced by numerous bus companies.

Most people fly into Phnom Penh or Siem Reap international airports and then travel to Batdambang via bus, car, or boat (Phnom Penh: 4-5 hours by bus; Siem Reap 3 hours by car/bus, 8-10 hours by boat). As Batdambang is located along the road between Phnom Penh and the Thai border, visitors traveling this route by land can easily stop in the city for a day or two in transit (Thai Border: 2 hours).

Busses and taxis also make frequent trips throughout the day to and from Poipet and the Thai border. The trip should only take about 2 hours. Note that the Thai border closes at 8:00pm and there are no busses that travel directly to Bangkok; you must cross on foot and make arrangements for onward travel via car, bus, or train once you cross into Thailand.

Also a popular route, the road to Siem Reap is in generally good condition and busses make numerous journeys each day that take around 3 hours. Another alternative is the scenic boat ride between Siem Reap and Batdambang. The trip downstream from Batdambang is considerably faster than the trip upstream from Siem Reap. While a voyage along the river, through floating forests and past both bird sanctuaries and water-based communities, is a wonderful experience for most, some find the 7 hour trip from Batdambang to Siem Reap slightly more enjoyable than those taking the 10 hour voyage in the opposite direction. Either way, the cost is around $20 per person.

Batdambang town is not geographically expansive: nearly all of the hotels, restaurants, and sights within the town are near enough each to other that walking from A to B is a very feasible option. However, many guesthouses rent bicycles, which makes exploring a bit faster and more enjoyable.

If you want to explore sights outside of town it is possible to rent 100cc or 250cc motorbikes from various guesthouses and tour agents. There are also a small number of motodop taxis and tuk tuks that can take you wherever you like for a reasonable, yet negotiable, fee. The touts in Battambang aren’t overly aggressive, which is a plus, but you can always inquire at your hotel/guesthouse or the tourist-information-office to help you arrange transportation to sights in and around town with ease.

As Battambang doesn’t attract nearly as many visitors as Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, or even Sihanoukville, there is a much smaller selection of hotels and guesthouses for visitors. That said, there is a pretty decent variety of such, from clean and inexpensive dorm rooms to boutique hotels built in restored colonial villas.

Most guesthouses and hotels are located on the western side of the Sangke River near the center of town (around of south of Psar Nat, the Central Market), though a growing number of hotels and guesthouses are being built on the quieter, more residential eastern side of the river. While hotels and guesthouses may be full on certain holidays, things never get so busy in Battambang that you can’t find a room without booking in advance, and all are located near enough to each other that it is possible to walk around town a bit to weigh your options.

For a city of its size there are considerably fewer dining options than one might assume there would be. That said, there is a decent selection of restaurants that cater to both local and foreign clientele.

In addition to restaurants within hotels, those in the center of town (Between Road No. 1 and Road No. 3), and several along the road running parallel to the river on the eastern bank of the Sangke River, there are street stalls selling inexpensive local dishes along the riverfront near the post office on the western bank of the river towards the south of town. One can also find food stalls selling inexpensive meals at Psar Nat (Central Market) and a few large, local restaurants along National Road No.5 heading east towards Phnom Penh.

There is almost no nightlife to speak of in Battambang. Certainly not what one would expect for a city of its size. But there are a few options: perhaps the best nightlife attraction is the circus performed by students at phare-ponleu-selpak. Otherwise there is one bar in town, the riverside-balcony and a few local discos, most popular of which is sky-disco.

Shopping opportunities are somewhat limited considering the size of Batdambang. There are several Cambodian markets that serve the shopping needs of the residents, namely Psar Nat (“meeting market” or Central Market)) and Psar Leu (New Market). If you enjoy checking out local markets, Phsar Boeung Chhoeuk, near the bus stops on the NW of town is another interesting option.

Most other shops are south of Psar Nat along Road 1 (the river road) and Road 3 which run parallel to each other. Road 1 has some interesting crafts shops while Road 3 features mostly clothing stores. There aren’t a preponderance of boutique shops, but in the streets and alleyways between Roads 1 and 3 there are some interesting shops you may discover.

Nearby Pailin has a diminishing gem mining industry that offers some buying opportunities for those with knowledge to evaluate them properly. After treatments were developed to counterbalance excess iron in local rubies, Cambodia became one of the world’s top ruby exporters. The trade, which funded the Khmer Rouge for years while holed up in Pailin, has slowed since the government has mandated more restricted mining (and perhaps because fewer gems are to be found). However, both rubies and sapphires can be purchased in Batdambang, particularly in the jewelry shops just north of Psar Nat and in the center of the market itself. These are legitimate businesses, not shady operations looking to scam tourists, but if you aren’t an expert, exercising common sense and cautious skepticism is advised.