Thommanon

Thommanon is a small Hindu temple within the Angkor Archaeological Park in Siem Reap province, Cambodia, constructed in the classical Angkor style during the late 12th to early 13th century. The modest-scale sanctuary is located close to the larger temple Chau Say Tevoda and near the royal enclosure area.

The temple is especially valued for its well-preserved stone carvings of devata (female deities) and ornate lintels that illustrate the quality of Angkorian stonework on a compact monument. It consists of a central sanctuary and associated gopura gateways arranged on an east-west axis.

Thommanon stands within the core Angkor complex visited by tourists and researchers and is accessed from the main circuits that link Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and nearby monuments.

• Sculptural preservation: Noted for finely carved devata and lintel sculpture that survive better than at many surrounding temples.

Combine a visit to Thommanon with Chau Say Tevoda, which lies just opposite along the Victory Way. You will approach from the south, so the central sanctuary is the tower directly ahead of you on the left. Small though the temple is, there are numerous carvings inside and out worth appreciating.

The eastern towers. First walk around to the east side and examine the carvings on the ancillary towers.

Towards the central sanctuary. As you approach the sanctuary from the east, note the carved pediments and lintels above the doorways, the finest of which shows a four-armed Vishnu riding his mount, the Garuda. A headless Buddha image is enshrined within the central sanctuary.

The devatas. From the antechamber, looking out through the windows gives a close view of the renowned devata carvings, which can also be admired by exiting the tower and walking carefully along the exterior of the shrine.

Thommanon was built around the same time as Angkor Wat and features elaborate carvings considered among the finest at Angkor. Small and far less visited than its great neighbour, this charming temple may even have served as a model for designs later employed at the state temple of Suryavarman II.

Fine ornamentation. Though the temple appears to have been left incomplete, it was restored in the 1960s and retains well-preserved ornamentation. Especially notable are the elaborately carved devatas, or female guardians, on the exterior, and the lintels and pediments above the doorways and on the tower facades, which depict episodes from the Ramayana and pay homage to both Shiva and Vishnu.

A supposed pair. Thommanon lies just opposite Chau Say Tevoda along the Victory Way. Because of the two temples’ positions on either side of the road, it was once thought they were built as a pair, but as they pre-date the road and appear to have been raised at different times, that relationship is doubtful.

Thommanon is inside the Angkor Archaeological Park, a short ride east of Siem Reap town. Most visitors arrive by tuk-tuk or taxi as part of the central Angkor temple circuit; the site is a 5-10 minute ride from the main loop near Angkor Wat.

• Visit Thommanon early in the morning to enjoy relatively quiet conditions compared with Angkor Wat and Bayon.
• Approach the small shrine slowly - the carvings on the lintels are delicate; use a telephoto lens rather than getting too close.
• Pair Thommanon with a walk between Ta Prohm and the small circuit around Angkor Thom for an efficient half-day route.