Chau Say Tevoda

Chau Say Tevoda is a 12th-century temple within the Angkor archaeological park near Siem Reap, Cambodia, notable for its 12th-century stone carvings and mixed Hindu-Buddhist iconography.

Constructed in the 12th century during the height of the Angkorian state, the temple reflects Hindu dedication originally and later incorporation of Buddhist elements as religious practice shifted in the region. The structure suffered damage over time and has undergone archaeological conservation in the 20th century.

The site sits inside the Angkor Archaeological Park in Siem Reap province, close to the eastern approach to Angkor Thom and near other royal and religious monuments in the central Angkor group.

• Visiting note: Smaller than many Angkor monuments, it is best visited alongside nearby Angkor Thom and the Royal Enclosure to avoid additional travel.

The parking area lies to the north of the temple, so it is best to walk around to the east and ascend the raised causeway, which is preceded by square boundary markers and a cruciform terrace guarded by lions and enclosed by naga balustrades.

Through the entry tower. Once past the eastern gopura, proceed towards the mandapa, or entry chamber, and on to the central sanctuary.

The sanctuary and libraries. From the central sanctuary, explore the exterior of the tower and the two libraries flanking it, where you will find both original and replacement carvings of devatas (female deities) along with bas-relief frontons. An eastern walkway leads the few hundred metres down to the Siem Reap River.

Chau Say Tevoda was begun during the reign of Suryavarman II in the early 12th century and continued under Yasovarman II. Of similar design to neighbouring Thommanon across the Victory Way, it was built as a Hindu temple and later saw two libraries and ornate monumental gateways (gopuras) added to its plan.

A shift from Hindu to Buddhist. Under Jayavarman VII, Buddhist decorative elements were added to the temple’s Hindu relief carving, part of his wider transformation of the state religion from Hinduism to Buddhism.

A controversial restoration. Much of the original structure has disappeared, leaving only the central buildings, the four gopuras and the libraries. From 2000 a team of Chinese experts undertook a restoration that proved contentious: rather than simply reusing replacement stones as earlier work at Thommanon had done, the project introduced newly fabricated blocks carrying fresh bas-relief carvings and rebuilt affected areas outright. The reconstruction was eventually agreed to by UNESCO. The finely worked devatas, or sacred female images, remain the temple’s chief reward and are well worth the detour.

Part of the Angkor temple circuit in Siem Reap. Most visitors reach Chau Say Tevoda by tuk-tuk or bicycle from Siem Reap (approximately 20-30 minutes depending on the route); it is close to the eastern gate of Angkor Thom.

• Visit as part of a temple circuit around Angkor - Chau Say Tevoda pairs well with Thommanon and Angkor Thom's southern circuits.
• Go during early morning or late afternoon to avoid harsh midday light on the crumbling bas-reliefs.
• Bring cash for small entrance fees and for local vendors selling guidebooks and refreshments.