Kratie is a fairly sleepy fishing village on the banks of the Mekong: it is home to fresh-water Irrawaddy dolphins and features a number of charming and historic Buddhist temples.
Kratie is a mid-size town on the Mekong River in eastern Cambodian that is popular with travelers of all shapes, sizes, and experiences, most of whom come to see the endangered, freshwater Irrawaddy dolphins, exotic waterfowl, and some beautiful and historic temples.
The town is very traveler-friendly: easy to reach, easy to get around, and easy to find decent lodgings and food. Kratie is a great place to relax for a few days and enjoy rural Cambodian life, particularly life along the Mekong River. There are a pair of islands in the Mekong with interesting communities you can visit, as well as a number of small, charming Buddhist temples that make easy day trips by bicycle or on the back of a motodop taxi.
In recent years, Kratie has become one of the “places to go” in Cambodia and has experienced a small swell in tourism beyond the backpacker scene that flocked to its banks just a short time ago. Despite this recent increase in visitors, the longtime fishing village of 260,000 residents has not changed a whole lot in terms of tourist offerings and accommodations.
The heart of Kratie town still revolves around a central market and a few block from the center of town are juxtaposed farms and streets lined with small businesses, homes and lush foliage. Most of the guesthouses are located either near the central market or along the street running parallel to the Mekong River.
Kratie is also the location of the Mekong Discovery Trail an eco-tourism venture that aims to increase awareness of responsible tourism practices. There is an office in Kratie that provides informative pamphlets with self-guided itineraries and opportunities for home stays and guided tours of destinations along the Mekong River, all the way up to the Laos border.
Overview
Kratie town is located on the eastern bank of the Mekong River. The “river road” features many hotels and restaurants on one side and a number of street-food stalls on the sidewalk overlooking the water on the other. These inexpensive ‘restaurants’ are set up every evening, drawing both locals and visitors.
One block east of the river road is the Kratie Market, from which roads lead North-South and East-West. Immediately surrounding the market are shophouses that sell goods mostly for a local clientele, particularly cell phones and electronics. There are several hotels and guest houses along these interior streets, though more-so on the ones leading to the river.
Most busses now drop visitors along the river road, near the Tourism Office. Once in Kratie, you can walk nearly anywhere, though there are tuk tuks and motodop drivers eager to shuttle you around if you are lazy or wish to go somewhere outside of town, such as the dolpin area or certain temples.
Where to Go
- Irrawaddy Dolphins: Most people come to Kratie to see the dolphins, which are north of town.
- Mekong Discovery Trail: The office of this excellent ecotourism project is located in Kratie.
- Wat Roka Kandal: Old temple ruins with a new temple built near by a few miles out of town. The old temple is utilized now by artisans and people selling handicrafts.
- Koh Trong: The island directly in front of Kratie town is teaming with wildlife and interesting Vietnamese communities.
- Phnom Sombok: This temple north of town has a hilltop setting and interesting paintings inside, and makes a good stop off after returning from seeing the dolphins.
When to Go
Kratie is best visited early in the dry season, when the river is full, but the rain isn’t an inconvenience. Dolphins are somewhat easier to spot when the river is lower at the end of the dry season however.
Things to Do
Kratie isn’t know for having lots of things to do, though there are enough activities and attractions to keep you busy for a few days. Kratie is most famously known for the Irrawaddy dolphins whose habitat is the Mekong River running north to south beside the town; Kampee Village, around 20 miles north of Kratie, is the launching point for boat trips to see the dolphins.
Other river-based activities include those promoted by the Mekong Discovery Trail, which has developed several ecotourism excursions that help you see the real Kratie. These include tours of Koh Trong, the island in the Mekong opposite Kratie town that is home to an Vietnamese floating village, which can either be self-guided (they provide informative maps) or with an inexpensive local guide.
In and around town there are a number of interesting temples from both before Angkor and through the 18th-20th centuries, including Sambor in Sambor, which is known as the Temple of 100 Columns, Wat Roka Kandal, which is the closest to the downtown area, and Phnom Sombok a hilltop temple with beautiful murals and panoramic views.
For those looking for less action, Kratie Market in the center of town is a great place to pick up fresh fruit and local crafts, and the riverfront area is a pleasant place to sit and watch the river particularly around sunset, after which you can get dinner and drinks at an inexpensive street-side food stall.
Getting There
Kratie town is located a few hours drive from the city Kampong Cham. The best way to get to Kratie is by bus which will take you about 3 hours from Phnom Penh. The mini bus, which is slightly faster, is not for the faint of heart (particularly those who are tall).
Kratie can easily be accessed by bus through Phnom Penh or any of the other major provincial cities. When coming from the east you will most likely be required to do a bus transfer in a remote town. Taking a minibus is also an option as they are usually faster, but can be cramped.
Kratie is a 4-5 hour bus ride from the major city of any province in Cambodia. Coming from the eastern provinces such as Mondulkiri or Ratanakiri expect to a layover with a bus change in a remote town. Minivans can also be chartered for a few dollars extra and are slightly faster, without the layover, but are usually packed full.
The adventurous types can seek out trucks to jump in the back of, for extremely cheap. It is recommended that you practice a little Khmer before doing so so you can say where you want to go and that you wish to hop in for a dusty, several hour long adventure.
Getting Around
Motos and tuk tuks are easily found near the bus stop by the Mekong. They are reasonable bargainers, patient (chummy even), and really want you to have the most of your experience. You will not be hassled at ever corner, but instead must seek out rides for yourself. This is not difficult and after being in the big cities actually refreshing.
While many are good, try: Mr. Sithy (on weekends) 088 836 4758
Where to Stay
Accommodations in Kratie are of the backpacker persuasion and are on the cheap. They are all located in town and along the Mekong offering air conditioning at at extra charge. Although the rooms are very basic, most of the guesthouses employ moderately good English speakers and will go out of there way for you to have a comfortable stay.
Guesthouses are also the best places to purchase bus tickets, rent bicycles (although usually small), and arrange sight seeing excursions. On the short term, the accommodations are reasonably comfortable, though the opportunity is definitely there for an entrepreneur to set up a really nice boutique guesthouse. Despite the growth in interest and tourism, the accommodations remain budget class.
Where to Eat
Dining in Kratie is cafe style with a mix of Khmer dining options. Some of the best food can be found in the pop-up dinner restaurants which line the Mekong at night. No menus is offered and you get what has been simmering for hours on the stove. Some guesthouses have cafes where food is really fresh, but the western (as can be expected) is hit or miss.
An exception to the rule is [Red Sun Falling], which has delicious western food such as fried chicken, salads, and crispy french fries.
Where to Party
Kratie is not a nightlife town. There is a style Karaoke bar where you should only go if one of the locals take you there. Otherwise outdoor dining on the Mekong goes into the later hours as does [Red Sun Falling] just across the street. Food and drinks is pretty much the name of the game.
Where to Shop
Shopping in Kratie is centered around the market which the town is built around. The vibe and the products are very much catered to the people who live there rather than the tourist. There are also local handicraft stalls which line the road to the dolphin pools. Here you can find gorgeous wood carvings of the Irrawaddy dolphins and other aquatic creatures.
The best places to by hand wood carvings are in the stalls near the [Dolphin Pools] Kratie. Prices very depending on the size and intricacy of the carving. For your basic needs, fruits and vegetables, clothes, and knickknacks try haggling like a local in the central market.
Need to Know
- What to do: Take a boat on the Mekong river to view the Irrawaddy dolphins and visit Phnom Sombok temple.
- For who: Nature lovers and backpackers. This town would also be appropriate if you are traveling with family.
- Trivia: Populations of Irrawaddy dolphins have also been discovered in Myanmar and Bangladesh.