Wat Roka Kandal Temple

Located in a provincial area, access is typically by motorcycle taxi or local vehicle from the nearest town. Arrange local transport for convenience, as public options may be limited.

• Combine the visit with nearby village markets to see how the wat's calendar is tied to local trade days.
• Look carefully at the lower parts of lintels and columns-local artisans often left small signatures and motifs there.
• If a service is underway, observe quietly from the perimeter; monks value a respectful distance.

Wat Roka Kandal has stood since the 1700s and is architecturally the finest temple in Kratie Province. Over time, however, the old pagoda fell into serious decay, and a newer one was built behind it.

As so often happens, local artisans took over the old space as a creative workshop, specialising in wickerwork for both art and construction. Thanks largely to a 2001 renovation by the Cambodian Craft Cooperation, the old pagoda has been transformed into a handicraft, cultural and tourism centre. Travellers are welcome to watch at the artists’ discretion, and a small gift shop sells wicker baskets alongside ceramics and silk textiles.

The pagoda is usually locked, but a shouted hello generally brings out the caretaker, who will show you the interior craft shop or the neighbouring pair of traditional riverside houses available to rent. A tip of a couple of thousand riel is appreciated.