Madagascar

Madagascar is a vast island off the coast of Africa, known for unique wildlife, dramatic landscapes, and strong cultural traditions. Antananarivo, the capital, sits on highlands dotted with rice paddies and colonial buildings. Beyond the city, rainforests like Andasibe shelter lemurs and chameleons, while the Avenue of the Baobabs and Tsingy de Bemaraha reveal otherworldly scenery. The beaches of Nosy Be and Île Sainte-Marie offer diving, snorkeling, and whale-watching in laid-back surroundings. Malagasy culture blends African and Asian roots, with traditional music, dance, and rice-based meals at its heart. Madagascar feels wild, welcoming, and unlike anywhere else.

Madagascar is like nowhere else on Earth, a giant island where otherworldly landscapes, weird and wonderful wildlife, and diverse cultures create a travel experience that feels completely apart from mainland Africa. Most visitors come to see the lemurs, the country’s most famous residents, and to explore places like the Avenue of the Baobabs, the spiny forests of the south, or the surreal limestone formations of Tsingy de Bemaraha. Antananarivo, the capital, is chaotic but colorful, while the coasts offer everything from diving in Nosy Be to surfing near Fort Dauphin. Travel here takes time and patience, but that’s part of the charm.

Although the heat and haze of the capital ‘Tana’ is easily escaped for the cooler climes of mountain rainforests, Madagascar’s roads and tourist infrastructure are most likely to drive you crazy. Luckily, the many domestic flights and tour operators offer a more relaxing way to access the country’s large number of parks, canyons, grottos, beaches and of course, the lemurs. It’s also a jolly popular for National Geographic expeditions.

In the capital and at the more popular beach resort towns like Nossi Bé, you’ll find excellent hotels, casinos, movie theaters and perhaps even a few venues with live music and traditional dancing. Elsewhere, pickings are slim, especially in the middle of the jungle. So, if you want to dance with the lemurs, who’s to stop you?

Madagascar is affordable, especially for budget travelers. You’ll find cheap hotels, guesthouses, and eco-lodges, though there are also a few luxury options near the best beaches and parks. Food is simple but hearty: lots of rice, zebu (beef), seafood, and French-influenced dishes like baguettes and stews. Western food is common in Antananarivo and tourist hotspots but harder to find in remote areas.

Getting around Madagascar is a major part of the adventure. Roads are often rough and slow, expect long rides in bush taxis (taxi-brousse) or hire private drivers for multi-day trips. Domestic flights can save time but are pricey and sometimes unreliable. French is widely spoken, along with Malagasy; English is less common outside the main tourist zones. Madagascar is generally safe for travelers, though pickpocketing happens in big cities and roads can be dangerous at night.

Families: Madagascar offers incredible wildlife, national parks, and beaches for adventurous families. Highlights include lemur spotting in Andasibe-Mantadia, baobab walks, and beach time in Nosy Be. Infrastructure is developing, so planning ahead is key.

Couples: Couples will love Madagascar’s combination of remote beaches, unique landscapes, and intimate eco-lodges. Romantic spots include the baobab forests near Morondava, luxury resorts in Nosy Be, and scenic highland towns like Antsirabe.

Backpackers: Madagascar is affordable and offers amazing diversity for backpackers , rainforests, beaches, deserts, and bustling towns. Transport can be slow and rough, but the rewards (like Avenue of the Baobabs and national parks) are worth the effort.

Digital Nomads: Antananarivo and Nosy Be have decent internet and cafés for working, but connectivity is unreliable elsewhere. Madagascar’s infrastructure limits its appeal for long-term remote work, though short stays are feasible.

Luxury Travelers: Madagascar has growing luxury tourism , upscale eco-lodges, boutique beach resorts, and private nature reserves. Nosy Be, Masoala, and select national parks offer high-end experiences with a strong nature focus.

Foodies: Malagasy cuisine is a fusion of African, Asian, and French influences. Rice, zebu (beef), seafood, and flavorful stews are staples. Antananarivo and coastal towns offer the best variety, while rural areas are more basic.

Beach Bunnies: Madagascar’s beaches are stunning and uncrowded , Nosy Be, Île Sainte-Marie, and Ifaty offer white sands, turquoise waters, and excellent snorkeling. Facilities are simpler than in the Seychelles or Mauritius but naturally beautiful.

Nature Buffs: Madagascar is one of the world’s top destinations for nature lovers , 90% of its wildlife is endemic, including lemurs, chameleons, and baobabs. Must-see spots include Andasibe, Tsingy de Bemaraha, and Isalo National Park.

History Buffs: Madagascar’s history blends African, Asian, and European influences. Antananarivo’s royal palace, pirate history on Île Sainte-Marie, and colonial-era towns offer glimpses into its past, though historical tourism is secondary to nature.

Culture Vultures: Malagasy culture is diverse and deeply rooted in tradition , music, dance, crafts, and ceremonies are integral. Local markets and village visits provide authentic cultural interactions, especially in the highlands and coastal regions.

Adventure Seekers: Trekking through rainforests, canyoning in Isalo, diving, kitesurfing, and climbing the Tsingy formations are top adventures. Madagascar is rugged and rewarding, with plenty of off-grid adventure options.

Solo Travelers: Solo travelers are welcome and safe in most areas, but infrastructure challenges and slow transport mean planning is essential. Joining group tours for treks and wildlife viewing is a good way to meet others and navigate logistics.

Party Animals: Antananarivo has a small but lively nightlife scene, with bars and nightclubs. Nosy Be offers laid-back beach parties. Elsewhere, nightlife is limited, and evenings are quiet in most rural areas.

Wildlife Watchers: Madagascar is legendary for wildlife , lemurs, chameleons, fossa, endemic birds, and incredible biodiversity. Guided tours in national parks like Ranomafana, Andasibe, and Masoala offer unforgettable wildlife encounters.

LGBTQ+: Madagascar does not criminalize homosexuality, but societal attitudes are conservative. LGBTQ+ travelers should be discreet, especially outside major cities and tourist zones.

Why Go to Madagascar?

• Wildlife You Won’t See Anywhere Else: See lemurs, chameleons, baobabs, and bizarre creatures like the aye-aye in their natural habitats.
• Avenue of the Baobabs: Walk among ancient, towering trees on one of the most iconic roads in Africa.
• Tsingy de Bemaraha’s Stone Forests: Hike through jagged limestone pinnacles and suspension bridges in this UNESCO-listed park.
• Beaches and Diving in Nosy Be: Relax on white-sand beaches, snorkel coral reefs, and explore nearby islands like Nosy Komba.
• Cultural Diversity: Experience Malagasy traditions, highland rice terraces, tribal tombs, and colorful markets full of crafts and spices.
• Hiking in the Highlands: Trek through parks like Andringitra or Isalo, with desert canyons, waterfalls, and dramatic scenery.
• Unspoiled Adventure: Travel through a country where mass tourism hasn’t taken over, where you still find isolated villages, remote parks, and wild landscapes.

Who Might Not Enjoy Madagascar?

• Travelers Expecting Smooth Infrastructure: Madagascar’s roads are often in poor condition, and public transportation is slow, uncomfortable, and unreliable. Even short distances can require full travel days.

• Luxury or Resort-Oriented Tourists: While there are a few upscale lodges in places like Nosy Be, much of the country offers basic accommodations with inconsistent service standards. Ultra-luxury travelers may find choices limited outside tourist hubs.

• Those Uncomfortable with Long Travel Times: Madagascar is a massive island, and reaching different regions, whether rainforests, beaches, or deserts, often requires long overland trips or costly, sometimes unreliable, domestic flights.

• Budget Travelers Unwilling to Compromise: Madagascar can be affordable, but saving money often means dealing with very basic guesthouses, crowded buses (taxi-brousse), and long, slow travel days. It’s cheap, but not always easy.

• Vegetarians or Vegans: Malagasy cuisine includes a lot of rice and vegetables, but many dishes incorporate meat or seafood. Finding clearly labeled, strictly vegetarian meals may require effort, especially outside cities.

• Travelers Wanting Organized, High-Efficiency Tours: While some excellent guides and tour companies exist, many areas still operate informally. Schedules change, and you often need flexibility and patience.

• Visitors Requiring Reliable Healthcare: Medical care is limited, especially outside Antananarivo. For serious conditions, evacuation to another country (like South Africa) would likely be necessary.

• Those Hoping for Vibrant Nightlife or Shopping Scenes: Nightlife is very modest outside Antananarivo and Nosy Be, and shopping is largely limited to crafts and local markets rather than luxury or designer goods.

• Travelers Sensitive to Heat, Humidity, or Dust: Depending on the region and season, Madagascar can be oppressively hot, humid, or dusty. Long drives on dirt roads can be physically taxing.

Highlights

Antananarivo: occassionally called Antananananariiiiivo! You’ll often hear this French-flavored town referred to simply as Tana. It’s built on three levels, dominated by the historic Queen’s Palace, and is the center of all trips to Madagascar. It claims to have the second-largest market in the world, and if the heat, crowds and pollution of the rest of the city don’t give you a headache, the bustle of Zoma Market will.

National parks: Ranomafana and L’Isalo national parks are easily accessible, where it is possible to spot lemurs, hike, explore canyons, swim and enjoy the great bio-diversity of Madagascar. Permits are required for entry to all national parks.

Nossi Bé: on the northwest coast is the most popular beach resort, serving up a beach vacation much like any other and some above par diving. Expect a few complaining Parisians pretending to enjoy ‘Afrique’.

Ifaty: is popular for its white sand beaches, shallow coral reefs and whale-watching. Divers should mark this one on their itinerary.

Fort Dauphin: in the southeast is known for its lobsters, remarkable scenery and as a gateway to the nearby Berenty Wildlife Reserve.

Antseranana: at the northernmost tip of the island is a seaport surrounded by lakes, waterfalls and a rainforest inhabited by lemurs, crocodiles and orchids.

Ambohimanga: the citadel here, surrounded by forests, is guarded by a stone gate which once required 40 men to roll it into position. It hasn’t moved since!

Diving: the main center for diving is at Nossi Bé and the surrounding islands, you should be able to find diving facilities all along the north and west coasts.

Trekking: tours can be arranged for groups with any interest, from lemur-watching to spotting rare orchids. On such an ecologically diverse island this is the real deal. Pony-treks can also be arranged for those who want an easy ride through the rainforest.

Whale-watching: the best time to spot these massive creatures is from July through September in the Bay of Antongil.

Spas: two volcanoes feed the thermal spas at Antsirabe, where you can bathe and get a massage.

Malaria is a risk throughout the country, but particularly in the coastal areas. You should drink bottled, boiled or otherwise sterilized water and avoid milk products. There is a danger of parasites in fresh water, so don’t swim in lakes and streams. Swimming and diving on the east coast is also not recommended due to the high danger from sharks. Unless you are on a packaged tour or staying in a high-end resort, you should expect at least some level of minor intestinal discomfort, if not diarrhea. If you do need a doctor, there are both public and private health facilities although both are somewhat limited.