Eritrea

Eritrea is a coastal country in the Horn of Africa, known for its Red Sea shoreline, colonial architecture, and cultural mix. Asmara, the capital, sits high on a plateau and surprises visitors with its well-preserved Italian modernist buildings, coffee culture, and relaxed pace. The Red Sea coast, including the port city of Massawa, features coral islands and Ottoman-era ruins. Inland, mountains and arid plains shape rural life, with strong traditions rooted in diverse ethnic groups. Eritrean food shares similarities with Ethiopian cuisine, with injera and spicy stews at its core. Quiet, proud, and visually unique, Eritrea remains one of Africa’s most intriguing and least-visited countries.

Eritrea is one of Africa’s most intriguing and least-visited countries, a place where Italian-era cities, Red Sea coastlines, mountain highlands, and desert plains come together under a veil of mystery and isolation. Most travelers come to explore the frozen-in-time streets of Asmara, a UNESCO-listed city filled with 1930s Art Deco architecture, or to relax along the Dahlak Archipelago, a chain of remote islands ideal for diving and snorkeling. Eritrea feels paused in time, quiet, orderly, and surprisingly beautiful for those who can look beyond the surface.

Eritrean has two to five-star hotels available for all types of travelers, but mostly hotels can only be found in the large cities, with the better hotels are in the main parts of Asmara. Only four of the Dahlak islands are inhabited, and you should expect basic lodgings here in guesthouses owned by camel and goat herders. The people are friendly and the streets are cleaner than those in many other parts of the continent.

Traveling in Eritrea is affordable, but the country’s closed-off nature means that travel requires planning and permits. Hotels range from old-school colonial buildings to basic guesthouses; only a few meet international standards. Food mixes Italian and local influences: pasta, espresso, injera with stews, and fresh seafood near the coast. Western food is limited outside Asmara, but the coffee is excellent almost everywhere.

Getting around requires permits for travel outside Asmara, which must be arranged in advance. Shared minibuses, taxis, and private drivers are the main options. The old steam train occasionally runs for tourists, offering a scenic ride through mountain passes. Tigrinya, Arabic, and English are widely spoken in cities. Eritrea is safe, especially in urban areas, with low crime, but it has strict rules: photography, media use, and movement are heavily monitored. Independent journalism and open internet access are limited.

Families: Eritrea isn’t geared toward family tourism, but adventurous families can enjoy the historic architecture of Asmara, the highlands, and the quiet Red Sea coast. Infrastructure is basic, and healthcare and amenities for children are limited.

Couples: Eritrea offers a peaceful, crowd-free escape for couples seeking history and atmosphere , especially in the Italianate charm of Asmara or along the undeveloped beaches near Massawa. It’s romantic in a quiet, retro way rather than luxurious.

Backpackers: Eritrea appeals to intrepid backpackers , cheap travel, welcoming people, and fascinating architecture. Overland travel is restricted and permits are required to leave Asmara, but for those who navigate the red tape, rewards include unique scenery and culture.

Digital Nomads: Internet is slow and unreliable, SIM cards are hard to obtain, and online access is restricted. Eritrea is not a viable destination for digital nomads beyond very short stays in Asmara.

Luxury Travelers: Eritrea has minimal high-end tourism. A few historic hotels in Asmara and beach lodges near Massawa offer comfort, but service and amenities are well below international luxury standards. Best for low-key travelers seeking authenticity.

Foodies: Food is a highlight , spicy stews, injera, and strong Italian influence (espresso, pasta, gelato) are central. Dining in Asmara and Keren is a unique blend of East African and Mediterranean traditions, though rural areas offer limited variety.

Beach Bunnies: Eritrea’s Red Sea coast is undeveloped but beautiful , coral reefs, remote islands (like the Dahlak Archipelago), and quiet beaches near Massawa await. Facilities are basic, but the isolation and natural beauty are the main draws.

Nature Buffs: From highland plateaus and desert plains to the Red Sea, Eritrea has diverse landscapes. Wildlife is limited due to war and hunting, but scenic beauty and quiet trekking near Filfil and Ghinda are appealing for nature lovers.

History Buffs: Eritrea is rich in history , colonial-era architecture in Asmara, Ottoman ruins in Massawa, Italian railway lines, and ancient Christian monasteries. Much is under-visited and under-promoted, but incredibly rewarding for those who seek it out.

Culture Vultures: Traditional Eritrean life blends with colonial-era aesthetics in a way that feels frozen in time. Church services, open-air cafés, markets, and architecture offer deep cultural immersion , especially in Asmara, Keren, and highland towns.

Adventure Seekers: Eritrea offers light adventure , hiking in the highlands, exploring abandoned railroads, island-hopping in the Dahlak Archipelago, and diving. Restrictions on movement limit spontaneous travel, but permitted areas offer unique experiences.

Solo Travelers: Asmara is safe and friendly, with a relaxed pace that suits solo travelers. Language barriers and travel permits make independent exploration harder, but solo travel is peaceful and low-pressure in allowed zones.

Party Animals: Nightlife is very low-key , Asmara has a few bars and Italian-style cafés, but the scene is subdued. Alcohol is available but limited outside cities, and Eritrea isn’t a party destination by any measure.

Wildlife Watchers: Wildlife has declined due to past conflict and overhunting. Some birdwatching is possible in the highlands and along the coast, and marine life around the Dahlak Islands offers niche snorkeling and diving opportunities.

LGBTQ+: Same-sex activity is illegal and LGBTQ+ people face strong societal stigma. Eritrea is not safe for openly LGBTQ+ travelers; discretion is essential throughout the country.

Why Go to Eritrea?

• Asmara’s Art Deco Architecture: Walk through palm-lined streets of cinemas, cafes, and buildings that haven’t changed since the 1930s.
• Dahlak Archipelago: Explore pristine, isolated islands with some of the best coral reefs in the Red Sea.
• Italian-Eritrean Culture: Sip macchiatos, eat spaghetti with berbere sauce, and visit espresso bars with colonial charm.
• Steam Train to Nefasit: Ride a vintage train through spectacular mountain scenery, when it’s running.
• Quiet, Safe Travel: Experience a calm, slow-paced atmosphere without crowds, touts, or overdevelopment.
• Highland and Desert Landscapes: Visit mountain villages, arid plains, and Red Sea ports, all in one trip.
• Cultural Mix: Engage with a mix of Christian and Muslim communities, old Orthodox churches, and desert mosques.

Who Might Not Enjoy Eritrea?

• Visitors Who Expect Open Tourism and Freedom of Movement: Eritrea tightly controls foreign travel. Permits are required for almost all travel outside the capital, Asmara, and many areas are entirely off-limits without government authorization.

• Travelers Uncomfortable with Surveillance and Restrictions: Eritrea is known for its heavy state surveillance. Foreigners are often monitored, and photography, internet use, and interactions with locals can attract scrutiny.

• Luxury Travelers: Outside of Asmara, accommodations are basic. Even in the capital, luxury is modest by international standards. Amenities like air-conditioning, reliable hot water, and modern conveniences are inconsistent.

• Budget Travelers Seeking Flexibility: Travel within Eritrea is limited by restricted routes, irregular transport, and few budget accommodations. Even simple logistics require advance planning and approvals.

• Strict Vegetarians or Vegans: While Eritrean cuisine includes lentils, injera, and vegetable-based dishes, options can be repetitive and limited, especially outside major cities where meat and dairy dominate local diets.

• Travelers Requiring Fast Internet or Mobile Connectivity: Internet access is extremely limited and censored. Most hotels lack Wi-Fi, mobile data is restricted, and communication with the outside world can be slow or monitored.

• Those Expecting Reliable Medical Services: Healthcare facilities are minimal outside Asmara. Even in the capital, supplies and services may be basic. Evacuation for serious health concerns is strongly advised.

• Tourists Wanting Nightlife or Independent Exploration: Asmara has a few cafés and bars with a retro charm, but nightlife is quiet. Independent travel is difficult, and there’s little in the way of organized tours.

• People Sensitive to Political or Human Rights Issues: Eritrea has one of the most authoritarian governments in the world, with widespread reports of repression. This can be emotionally or ethically difficult for some travelers.

Highlights

• Asmara: some impressive pieces of Italian colonial architecture are found here. Harnet Avenue, the main street of Asmara, is the place to start exploring. It has the best restaurants, cinemas and hotels in the country.
• Karen: is the place where the famous wood and camel market can be found. Hundreds of camels are brought to the main road of the ‘Circle of Flowers’ every Monday. On other days, there are only a few camels, but plenty of donkeys and firewood.
• Dahlak archipelago: along the Red Sea coast encompasses 200 little islands. A permit is needed to visit the islands, which can be secured from the Eritrean Shipping Lines office in Massawa.
• Nefasit Monastery: sits atop a hill that provides awe-inspiring views of the Red Sea coast. There are narrow trails for hiking in the area.

• Theater: the Opera House on Harnet avenue in Asmara is one of the most impressive buildings in the city. The National Theater of Eritrea is where to go for cultural shows and events.
• Cultural immersion: in Eritrea’s religious diversity (Catholic and Muslim) is a good way to get to know this country. Visit the Great Mosque on Harnet avenue and the Catholic Cathedral, the landmark of Asmara.
• Shopping: visit the Madebar open-air market in Asmara where merchants recycle everything, making shoes out of tires and stoves out of metal containers.
• Dining: on seafood is a must on the main street of Massawa, which is lined with numerous stores, bars and restaurants.
• Hiking: through Nefasit up to Debre Bizen is a breeze, as the trail is lined with stones to follow. You can go bird-watching and marvel at the rock hyraxes on the side. Don’t forget to buy at least two bottles of water at the trailhead of Nefasit; it’s going to be a long and hot walk up.