The capital of the province of the same name, Uttaradit is a typical modern town with a few temples tucked away in the backstreets. While it’s got all the conveniences for local residents such as markets, shopping centers and restaurants, there’s little to interest visitors from afar.
Uttaradit began life as a town called Bang Pho Tha It. It was through the successes of its port that the reigning monarch of the time (King Rama V) decided it was worthy of provincial status. The name Uttaradit, which it acquired in 1915, literally means ‘port of the north’.
The town is by no means a major visitor destination, as there are no ancient monuments or buildings of great significance. This makes it an ideal place for anyone wishing to experience day-to-day life in a non-touristy Thai town, though you’ll need to use lots of sign language and dig out your phrase book, as the town’s hotels and restaurants are not used to foreign visitors.
The town of Uttaradit came into being because of its importance as a port. Nowadays, river transport is no longer used in any significant way, but the modern town provides all the essentials for its inhabitants in terms of fresh markets, shopping malls and restaurants. The town sits on the west bank of the Nan River, with the railway line passing through north to south and the town’s main roads running parallel to and either side of the railway.
Most hotels are located to the southeast of the railway station either beside or near Highway 102 which runs to Si Satchanalai to the west. The bus station is also in this part of town, as are the restaurants most likely to be if interest to foreign visitors.
Wat Thammathipathai is in the northeast corner of town, while Wat Phra Boromathat Thung Yang and Wat Phra Taen Sila-At are both a few kilometers southwest of town beside Highway 102.
Where to Go
- Wat Phra Boromathat Thung Yang: this place a few kilometers from the town center exudes an aura of great age.
- Wat Thamma Thipatai: a temple housing two ancient doors from Wat Phra Fang, carved in the Ayutthaya period.
- Wat Phra Taen Sila-At: it’s not really worth the 7km trip to see this temple’s most precious possession - a laterite sermon platform.
When to Go
Uttaradit has a similar pattern of seasons to the rest of the north, though since its elevation is not so high, temperatures do not drop so much in the cool season as in the mountainous areas further north. Still, November to February is a pleasant time to visit, while March to May is the hot season, when temperatures and humidity rise steeply, and June to October is the rainy season, when the provincial countryside is at its best.
Things to Do
It’s tempting to say there’s nothing at all to do in Uttaradit, as even the town’s feted temples - Wat Thamma Thipatai, Wat Phra Boromathat Thung Yang and Wat Phra Taen Sila-At - are distinctly second-rate. However, if you wander round the town’s side streets at a leisurely pace, there’s every chance you’ll have interesting encounters with the locals as everywhere in Thailand.
If you happen to be in town in early June or mid-September, you might be lucky to witness the durian festival or the langsat festival, when these two locally produced fruits are the cause of parades and beauty queen competitions.
Getting There
Bus services leave frequently from Bangkok’s Mo Chit Bus Station for Uttaradit (8 hours) and there are regular train services from Bangkok’s Hualamphong Station (9 hours). Uttaradit has a small airport but at present is receiving no flights.
The easiest way to get to Uttaradit, from either Bangkok or Chiang Mai, is by train or bus. The train station is right in the middle of town and the bus station is not far from the center, to the south of H102. The nearest airport is in Phitsanulok.
Getting Around
For those who don’t have their own transport, the best way of getting around is by motorbike taxi. This is best arranged through the front desk of your hotel if you are not a Thai speaker.
Where to Stay
As Uttaradit is quite a big town, there are several hotels around, though only a few that cater to foreigners, and even then you might find the staff’s English skills rather basic. There’s not much to pick between the few recommendations below, as they offer similar amenities and facilities and charge similar rates.
Where to Eat
There must be over a hundred restaurants in Uttaradit, but you’ll be lucky to find an English menu anywhere but the New York Restaurant, and the restaurants in the Seeharaj and Friday Hotels. As always in Thailand, however, if you see somewhere that appeals without any English signage, the owners will do their best to accommodate your wishes. Carrying a phrase book around with you can open up many different options when you feel hungry.
Where to Party
There’s nothing like a Western-style pub in Uttaradit, but if you’re curious to see how the locals enjoy themselves after hours, head for the nightclub in either the Friday or Seeharaj Hotel, where there’s nightly live music, though not all of it is sweet on the ear. Karaoke seems particularly popular in Uttaradit, so don’t be surprised if the locals try to persuade you to join in and perform a rendering of a rock classic such as ‘Hotel California’.
Where to Shop
The only product for which Uttaradit is well-known is its durian, which many Thais revere as the ‘king of fruits’. This is certainly not the kind of souvenir you’d want to (or be able to) take back home with you, but if you’ve never tried this exotic taste, here’s a good opportunity.
Get someone knowledgable to help you select a fruit, as choosing a durian at its peak of ripeness is a tricky skill, and be careful not to stab yourself on the protective spikes as you prize it open.