Turkmenistan

Turkmenistan is a desert nation of marble cities, ancient ruins, and strict isolation. Ashgabat, the capital, is filled with white marble buildings, golden domes, and near-empty streets, creating an otherworldly feel. In the Karakum Desert, the Darvaza Gas Crater, known as the “Door to Hell”, burns endlessly under the stars. Ancient Silk Road cities like Merv and Nisa tell stories of lost empires. The country’s culture blends Turkic traditions with Soviet legacy, seen in its crafts, carpets, and tea-centered hospitality. Heavily controlled and rarely visited, Turkmenistan is surreal, secretive, and unlike anywhere else.

Home of the ‘world’s biggest fountains’, it is also the site of the ruins of some of the oldest civilizations and biggest empires in the ancient world including Old Nissa, the capital of the Parthian Empire. It is also where Merv, the second most important Islamic center in the 12th century, can be found.

The country is also of political interest, as it was once ruled by a recently deceased dictator who built himself a golden statue, and even named days of the week after himself. Despite its rich oil and gas reserves, the people of Turkmenistan remain poor and repressed by their own government.

Most travelers come to see the surreal Darvaza Gas Crater, often called the “Door to Hell,” a giant burning pit in the middle of the Karakum Desert that’s been on fire since the 1970s. The capital, Ashgabat, feels like a sci-fi set: all white marble, golden statues, massive empty avenues, and strange architectural grandeur. It’s a city built for image, not for people, and wandering through it feels both impressive and eerie. Beyond the capital, there’s Merv, once one of the great Silk Road cities, now a haunting collection of ruins in the desert, and Konye-Urgench, another UNESCO site with crumbling minarets and mausoleums. Turkmenistan is a place where the past and present clash in strange and unforgettable ways.

Turkmenistan has some good hotels including an extravagant five-star hotel made for wealthy oil barons who visit the country. Lodges and family-owned bed-and-breakfasts are also available. Restaurants are diverse, but they mostly serve Continental, European, Russian, and Asian fare.

The locals are accommodating, but do not, in any circumstance, criticize their president, their country, or their people because they are very sensitive about this.

Traveling in Turkmenistan isn’t like other places. The country is moderately priced, but most visitors are required to join a guided tour or travel with an official escort guide, unless they’re lucky enough to secure a rare transit visa. Independent travel is heavily restricted, and you’ll likely be with your guide throughout your trip. Accommodations range from basic hotels to government-approved mid-range options, mainly in Ashgabat, Mary, and Dashoguz. The food is simple, expect lots of plov, shashlik, and bread. Vegetarians will struggle, and menus are often limited outside cities. Alcohol is available but not culturally emphasized.

Transport infrastructure is decent, with trains connecting major cities and domestic flights available, though not always reliable. Road travel is the most common method, especially for reaching Darvaza and desert sites. Russian is still widely spoken, and Turkmen is the official language. English is rare, even in cities, so having a guide or some Russian helps a lot. Turkmenistan is safe for travelers in terms of crime, but the surveillance state is real, expect bureaucracy, checkpoints, and some restrictions on photography and movement. Internet is heavily censored and unreliable.

Why Go to Turkmenistan?

• Darvaza Gas Crater (Door to Hell): Camp next to a massive, burning crater in the Karakum Desert, a bizarre and unforgettable sight.
• Ashgabat’s Marble Cityscape: Wander through a city of white marble buildings, golden statues, and empty grandeur, unlike anywhere else on earth.
• Ancient Merv & Silk Road Ruins: Explore the ruins of Merv, a once-great Silk Road city filled with ancient walls, mosques, and mausoleums.
• Konye-Urgench’s Timeless Remnants: Visit Konye-Urgench, where minarets and tombs stand isolated on the steppe, echoing past empires.
• Strange Soviet Legacies: Discover a country where Soviet relics, cult-of-personality monuments, and rigid bureaucracy coexist.
• Nomadic Culture & Hospitality: Meet Turkmen people outside the cities, where hospitality is still strong, and traditional yurt life endures.
• Adventure & Curiosity: Experience one of the most closed, controlled, and curiously fascinating places in the world.

Start in Ashgabat, the surreal capital. It holds the Guinness record for the most white marble buildings in any city. Streets are wide and empty, government monuments are everywhere, and fountains gleam under golden domes. Visit Independence Park, Neutrality Monument, and the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque, also known as the Gypjak Mosque, which doubles as the mausoleum for the country’s former president. The National Museum of History offers context on Turkmenistan’s ancient and modern past. Just don’t expect open political discussion, this is still one of the most authoritarian states in the world.

A few hours north of Ashgabat lies Darvaza Gas Crater, nicknamed the “Door to Hell.” This flaming pit in the middle of the Karakum Desert has been burning since the 1970s, when a Soviet drilling accident opened a natural gas pocket that was set alight. It’s best seen at night, when the flames cast an eerie glow over the desert. Camping nearby is allowed (with a guide), and it’s one of the wildest overnight experiences in Central Asia.

In the east, head to Merv, once one of the great cities of the Silk Road. Today it’s a spread of ancient ruins across the desert near the modern town of Mary. You’ll find crumbling walls, mausoleums, and fortress remains that hint at the city’s former grandeur. Gonur Depe, an even older site in the same region, dates back over 4,000 years and is considered one of Central Asia’s earliest urban centers.

Konye-Urgench, in the northwest near the Uzbek border, is another important historical site. Once the capital of the Khorezm Empire, it was nearly wiped out by Genghis Khan. What remains is a scattering of impressive mausoleums and minarets rising from the desert.

For nature, the Karakum Desert dominates most of the country. There are camel treks, remote oases, and a few traditional villages, but much of the land is dry, flat, and empty. That’s part of the appeal, Turkmenistan is less about ticking off sights and more about experiencing the strange, beautiful stillness of it all.

Highlights

• Ashgabat – A gleaming, marble-heavy capital full of bizarre monuments and tightly controlled order.
• Darvaza Gas Crater – A flaming pit in the middle of the desert, one of the world’s most surreal camping spots.
• Merv – A vast archaeological site and former Silk Road metropolis with ruins dating back over 2,000 years.
• Konye-Urgench – A historic city with haunting mausoleums and one of the tallest minarets in Central Asia.
• Gonur Depe – A Bronze Age archaeological site offering insight into one of the oldest civilizations in the region.

Top Cities & Towns

• Ashgabat – The strange and pristine capital, unlike any other in Central Asia.
• Mary – A modern town that serves as the gateway to Merv and Gonur Depe.
• Türkmenabat – A transport hub in the east, useful for overland travel to and from Uzbekistan.
• Konye-Urgench – A small town with major historical ruins, near the northern border.
• Balkanabat – A western oil town with some nearby hills and a glimpse into Turkmenistan’s energy industry.

Nature & Outdoor Adventure

• Darvaza Gas Crater – Camp beside a burning crater and watch the desert sky light up with flame.
• Karakum Desert – Vast and empty, perfect for camel treks and desert solitude.
• Köýtendag Mountains – In the southeast, home to caves, canyons, and the highest peak in Turkmenistan.
• Yangykala Canyon – A spectacular, colorful canyon in the far west that’s still little visited.
• Garabogazköl Lagoon – A salty inlet of the Caspian Sea, surreal and almost lifeless, but strangely beautiful.

Historical & Cultural Sites

• Merv – Once one of the largest cities in the world; now a haunting sprawl of desert ruins.
• Konye-Urgench – Mausoleums and relics from the Khorezm Empire, many still standing after centuries.
• Gonur Depe – An important Bronze Age site tied to the ancient Oxus civilization.
• Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque – One of the largest mosques in Central Asia, dedicated to the former president.
• National Museum of History – Packed with artifacts from Turkmenistan’s long and complex past.

Unique Experiences

• Camp at Darvaza – Sleep under the stars next to a roaring pit of fire in the desert.
• Wander Ashgabat’s marble avenues – Experience the surreal cleanliness and symmetry of the capital.
• Explore Merv by bicycle or foot – Wander through vast, windblown ruins of a long-lost Silk Road city.
• Photograph Yangykala Canyon – Capture vivid pink and red rock walls in one of the country’s most remote areas.
• Ride camels through the Karakum – Get a taste of nomadic life in the heart of the desert.

In the capital, Ashgabat, visitors are greeted by a surreal cityscape of white marble buildings, golden statues, and wide, empty boulevards. Landmarks like the towering Independence Monument, the futuristic Alem Cultural Center, and the grand Ruhy Mosque reflect the country’s distinctive, state-driven aesthetic. At night, the city glows with LED-lit facades and lavish fountains, creating a dreamlike atmosphere that feels unlike anywhere else on Earth.

Outside the capital, Turkmenistan’s natural and historical wonders await. The most iconic site is the fiery Darvaza Gas Crater, known as the “Door to Hell,” a massive burning pit in the Karakum Desert that’s been blazing for decades and draws adventurous travelers for unforgettable overnight stays under the stars. The ancient ruins of Merv, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, once one of the largest cities in the Islamic world, offer a glimpse into the region’s Silk Road past. Other archaeological treasures include Nisa, the capital of the Parthian Empire, and the desert oasis of Konye-Urgench.

• Scuba Diving: Turkmenistan has a Caspian Sea coastline, but no real diving scene. The water is murky, and there’s almost no infrastructure for underwater tourism.
• Motorcycle Touring: With endless desert roads and minimal traffic, Turkmenistan is great for adventurous riders, especially the route through the Karakum Desert to the Door to Hell.
• Nightlife & Partying: Ashgabat has a few upscale lounges and hotel bars, but nightlife is tightly controlled. Outside the capital, it’s almost non-existent.
• Rock Climbing: There’s some potential near the Köýtendag Mountains, but it’s undeveloped and largely unexplored by the international climbing community.
• Bicycle Touring: Cyclists doing the Silk Road route often pass through, tackling harsh desert conditions and long stretches without services. It’s doable, but tough.
• Golfing: There’s no golf culture in Turkmenistan, and no known public golf courses.
• Shopping: Markets like Tolkuchka Bazaar near Ashgabat offer carpets, silks, spices, and odd Soviet relics. Just don’t photograph without permission.
• Trekking: The Köýtendag Mountains in the east are home to some of Central Asia’s deepest caves and highest peaks. Limited access, but huge potential.
• Mountain Biking: Rugged terrain and low traffic make for good conditions in theory, especially around Köýtendag, but there’s no formal scene.
• White Water Rafting: With limited rivers and low rainfall, Turkmenistan isn’t a rafting destination.
• Wind Surfing: The Caspian coast could work with the right gear and wind, but no one’s developed it. You’ll be on your own.

Cultural Experiences

Turkmenistan’s culture is a mix of ancient nomadic traditions, Islamic heritage, and Soviet eccentricity. Much of it is state-curated, but real life still peeks through.

• Exploring the Ancient City of Merv: Once one of the great cities of the Islamic world, Merv is now a sprawling ruin. It’s a UNESCO site with layers of history, from Zoroastrians to Mongols.
• Visiting the Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar: A 12th-century brick dome rising from the desert near Merv, this mausoleum is one of the few remaining pieces of that once-great city.
• Walking Through the Ruins of Nisa: The former Parthian capital lies near Ashgabat. Crumbling walls, old wine cellars, and royal tombs, silent but powerful.
• Attending a Horse Show Featuring Akhal-Teke Horses: These golden, sleek desert horses are a national obsession. You’ll see them on coins, monuments, and postage stamps.
• Exploring Turkmen Carpet Weaving Traditions: Turkmen rugs are world-famous. If you’re in Ashgabat, visit the Carpet Museum to see patterns tied to tribal identity and history.

Natural Experiences

Turkmenistan’s natural beauty is stark, vast, and often surreal. Think sand dunes, canyons, salt lakes, and gas craters.

• Camping at the Darvaza Gas Crater (“Door to Hell”): This flaming pit has been burning in the desert since the 1970s. No fences, no signs, just a surreal glow in the sand.
• Exploring Yangykala Canyon: A rainbow-colored canyon system in the west, with layered cliffs and empty horizons. It’s remote, hot, and unforgettable.
• Visiting Köýtendag Nature Reserve: Home to Turkmenistan’s highest mountain (Aýrybaba), massive caves, and unique wildlife. Access is tricky, but the landscape is wild.
• Stargazing in the Karakum Desert: With almost no light pollution, the desert sky lights up at night. In winter, temperatures drop below freezing, so bring layers.
• Seeing the Dinosaur Plateau: Near the Uzbek border, this stone plateau is covered in fossilized dinosaur footprints, one of the largest track sites in the world.

Urban Experiences

Turkmenistan’s cities are unlike anywhere else, especially Ashgabat, a capital of marble, fountains, and Soviet spectacle.

• Wandering Around Ashgabat’s Monumental Core: White marble towers, gold statues of former President Niyazov, and empty six-lane roads. It’s eerie, clean, and a bit like wandering through a movie set.
• Visiting the Neutrality Monument: Once crowned with a rotating gold statue of Niyazov, this tower is the epitome of Turkmen-style architecture. The view from the top shows a city built for image.
• Shopping at the Russian Bazaar in Ashgabat: Locals come here for produce, clothing, and housewares. It’s one of the few places you’ll see real life in the capital.
• Seeing the Earthquake Memorial: A poignant monument commemorating the 1948 quake that destroyed the city and killed nearly two-thirds of its population.
• Riding the Ashgabat Ferris Wheel (inside a building): It’s claimed to be the world’s largest indoor Ferris wheel. Empty most of the time, just like the city itself.

Unique Experiences

You won’t find these things anywhere else, and that’s the point.

• Camping Beside the Door to Hell: The highlight of most visits. You’ll set up camp near the crater, watch it glow through the night, and feel like you’ve landed on Mars.
• Driving Through the Marble Streets of Ashgabat: It holds the Guinness record for most white marble buildings. Nobody’s ever sure why.
• Exploring the Underground Kow Ata Sulfur Lake: Hidden in a cave outside Ashgabat, this warm, mineral-rich lake smells like eggs and looks like a Soviet spa.
• Taking a Desert Road Trip Without Seeing a Soul: In most countries, this would be strange. In Turkmenistan, it’s normal. You might drive for hours without passing another vehicle.
• Visiting a Town with Giant Gold Statues but No Residents: Satellite towns built in the Niyazov era often look impressive, until you realize nobody lives there.

Weird and Wonderful

Turkmenistan is one of the weirdest countries on earth. And it doesn’t try to hide it.

• The Ruhnama Book Monument: A massive stone book representing the late president’s spiritual guide to the nation. It used to open every night with a light show.
• The “Arch of Neutrality” with Rotating Niyazov Statue: Once rotated to follow the sun. Now the statue is gone, but the structure remains, half UFO, half trophy.
• Empty Hotels with 5-Star Ratings: In Awaza, on the Caspian coast, gleaming beach resorts are mostly empty. Built for a tourism boom that never came.
• Marble Apartment Blocks with Nobody in Them: In Ashgabat, entire neighborhoods look lived-in from a distance. But get closer, and you’ll see they’re often vacant.
• Giant Indoor Ferris Wheel with No Line: You’ll have it all to yourself. And the staff might seem surprised to see you.

Getting around Turkmenistan can be tricky. The country is vast and mostly desert, and public transportation is functional but often limited. Trains and buses run between major cities, but for most trips, you’ll end up using taxis, shared cars, or private drivers. Independent travel is also restricted, most visitors are on tours, and locals often need permits to travel between regions.

Train

Turkmenistan’s rail network, run by Turkmendemiryollary, connects major cities with long, slow routes across the desert. Trains are cheap and a solid option if you’re not in a hurry.

• Ashgabat to Turkmenabat (12–14 hours): A long journey to the east along the Karakum Desert.
• Ashgabat to Mary (8 hours): A route to the city near the ancient ruins of Merv.
• Ashgabat to Türkmenbaşy (15 hours): A desert slog to the Caspian Sea coast.

Expect basic comfort: no Wi-Fi, old rolling stock, and occasional delays. Bring food, water, and patience.

Bus

Intercity buses exist but are less organized than trains. Most routes use minibuses or shared vans, leaving from bus terminals in cities. They’re faster than trains but less comfortable.

• Ashgabat to Mary (6 hours): A common route for travelers heading to Merv.
• Ashgabat to Dashoguz (10–12 hours): A northern route toward the Uzbek border.
• Ashgabat to Balkanabat (7–8 hours): A road through the desert to the oil-rich west.

Schedules can be erratic, and vehicles are often crowded. Most leave in the morning and run until early afternoon.

Car Rental

Self-driving isn’t really an option. Most tourists are on escorted tours, and driving as a foreigner can be complicated by checkpoints and permits. If you do need private transport, hire a car with a driver through your hotel or guide.

• Ashgabat to Darvaza (3–4 hours): A common private hire route to see the “Gates of Hell”, the burning gas crater.
• Mary to Gonur Depe: A remote desert drive to the ruins of a Bronze Age city in the Murghab River Delta.

Road conditions are good on major routes, but signage is limited, and fuel stations are sparse outside cities.

Ride Share

No Uber or Bolt here. Locals use informal taxis, and there are no real ride-hailing apps. In Ashgabat, you might be able to get a lift just by standing by the road and waving. It’s common to flag down private cars, locals do it all the time.

• Negotiate the price before getting in.
• Use USD or Turkmen manat, but small bills are preferred.
• Drivers don’t speak English, so be ready with maps or addresses in Turkmen or Russian.

Ferries

Turkmenistan borders the Caspian Sea, and there’s a port in Türkmenbaşy. Ferries exist, mostly for cargo, but passenger service is unreliable.

• Türkmenbaşy to Baku, Azerbaijan (18–24+ hours): A cargo ferry that sometimes takes passengers. No schedule, no guarantees.

Not a recommended option unless you’re truly patient and flexible. Think of it as an adventure, not a timetable.

Air

Domestic flights are the most practical way to cover long distances. Flights are run by Turkmenistan Airlines, and tickets are very cheap, even for foreigners.

• Ashgabat to Mary (1 hour): Useful for reaching Merv quickly.
• Ashgabat to Dashoguz (1 hour): Avoids a long overnight train ride.
• Ashgabat to Türkmenbaşy (1 hour): Best way to reach the Caspian coast.

Flights are heavily subsidized and often full. Book early and expect occasional delays.

Taxis

Taxis are the main way to get around cities. There are official taxis, but most are unmarked private cars. Fares aren’t metered, so you’ll need to negotiate before getting in.

• In Ashgabat, taxis are everywhere, especially near hotels and markets.
• In Mary, Dashoguz, and Balkanabat, taxis are fewer, but still the go-to option.
• At airports, prices can be inflated, so agree on a fare in advance.

City trips are cheap, but intercity taxis are also common and often shared with other passengers.

Public Transport in Cities

Ashgabat has a basic bus and minibus network, but no metro or tram. It’s cheap, and buses cover most of the city.

• Minibuses (marshrutkas) are the fastest option and follow numbered routes.
• City buses are slow but cost pennies.

Stops may not be marked clearly, and you’ll need to ask locals or use offline maps. Most signs are in Turkmen or Russian.

Turkmenistan is a tightly controlled country with low levels of petty crime and rare violent incidents. For tourists, the main safety concerns aren’t crime but government restrictions, limited access to information, and a lack of transparency. Surveillance is common, internet access is censored, and movement outside designated areas may be restricted. Travelers should be respectful of local laws and avoid discussing politics.

To be safe, stick with bottled water. You may want to specify ‘negazirovanie’ (which means without gas or still) if you do not want to order fizzy water. Do not photograph anyone in uniform or any government buildings, unless you fancy an unlimited time in custody.

Health risks are moderate. Tap water is not considered safe to drink, especially outside Ashgabat. Food hygiene is inconsistent, upscale restaurants in the capital are usually fine, but roadside eateries and rural establishments may pose a higher risk of foodborne illness. Healthcare in Ashgabat is basic but functional for minor issues; services outside the capital are very limited. Travel insurance with medical evacuation coverage is essential.

Scams & Petty Crime: Street crime is rare, and violent crime is extremely uncommon. Petty theft can happen, but it’s not a widespread issue. The bigger risk is bureaucratic: travelers may face fines or complications for photographing restricted areas, straying off permitted routes, or lacking the right permits. Always carry your passport, and follow your guide’s advice if on an organized tour.

Political Unrest: The country is politically stable under an authoritarian regime. Protests are extremely rare and not tolerated by the government. Tourists should avoid any political conversations and stay away from government buildings or sensitive sites.

Diseases: Food- and waterborne illnesses like hepatitis A, typhoid, and traveler’s diarrhea are the most common risks. Tap water is unsafe, drink bottled or treated water. Summer heat can also lead to dehydration. There’s no malaria risk, but insect repellent is still a good idea in rural areas to prevent bites.

Health Facilities: Medical facilities in Ashgabat are limited but adequate for minor issues. English is not widely spoken in hospitals. In rural areas, clinics often lack basic supplies and trained personnel. Emergency medical evacuation may be necessary for serious conditions, Tashkent or Istanbul are common destinations.

Road Conditions: Roads in Ashgabat and between major cities are in decent condition, but rural and desert roads can be poor, with potholes, sand drifts, and limited signage. Driving standards vary, and traffic enforcement can be unpredictable. Avoid driving at night. Travelers often hire drivers for longer trips.

Food & Water: Tap water is not safe to drink. Bottled water is widely available in cities. Food hygiene varies; stick to well-reviewed restaurants and avoid undercooked meat or unwashed produce. Street food should be approached cautiously, especially in the summer heat.

Nature’s Fury: Turkmenistan is prone to extreme heat, especially in the Karakum Desert, where summer temperatures can exceed 45°C (113°F). Earthquakes are possible, particularly near Ashgabat. Sandstorms and sudden weather changes may affect travel in desert regions. Always check local conditions before heading into remote areas.

Embassies and Consulates

For visa applications, consular services, and official information, travelers can contact the following embassies and consulates of Turkmenistan:

• Embassy of Turkmenistan in the United States – Washington, D.C.

Note: For a comprehensive list of Turkmenistan’s diplomatic missions worldwide, visit the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Turkmenistan.

Government Safety Advisories

• U.S. Department of State - Turkmenistan Travel Advisory
• Government of Canada - Travel Advice and Advisories for Turkmenistan
• UK Foreign Travel Advice - Turkmenistan
• Australia Smartraveller - Turkmenistan
• New Zealand SafeTravel - Turkmenistan

Blogs and Forums

These platforms provide insights into traveling, living, and working in Turkmenistan:

• Reddit: r/Turkmenistan – A community for discussions about Turkmenistan, including travel experiences, cultural insights, and current events.
• TripAdvisor: Turkmenistan Travel Forum – A forum where travelers share their experiences, ask questions, and provide advice about visiting Turkmenistan.

YouTube Channels & Videos

Explore Turkmenistan through these travel vlogs and documentaries:

• Indigo Traveller - Turkmenistan – A travel vlog offering insights into Turkmenistan’s culture, travel tips, and must-see destinations.
• Drew Binsky - Turkmenistan – A travel vlog providing a unique perspective on traveling through Turkmenistan.

Instagram Feeds

These Instagram accounts highlight Turkmenistan’s landscapes, culture, and urban life:

• @visit_turkmenistan – An account showcasing the beauty and diversity of Turkmenistan.
• @turkmenistan.travel – Features stunning photos of Turkmenistan’s cityscapes and cultural heritage.

Newspapers

Stay updated with Turkmenistan’s latest news through these newspapers:

• Turkmenistan Today – An English-language news source providing national and international news related to Turkmenistan.
• Turkmenportal – Offers news coverage on current events, politics, and society in Turkmenistan.

Other Useful Websites

• Government of Turkmenistan
• Turkmenistan Tourism
• Turkmenistan Airlines
• Ashgabat International Airport
• Turkmenistan Railways

Travel Guides

These websites offer detailed travel guides for Turkmenistan:

• Lonely Planet - Turkmenistan
• Frommer’s - Turkmenistan
• Fodor’s - Turkmenistan
• Wikivoyage - Turkmenistan