Eswatini

Eswatini, formerly known as Swaziland, is a small, landlocked kingdom known for its rolling hills, traditional culture, and welcoming spirit. Mbabane, the capital, and nearby Manzini are lively hubs with markets and crafts. The Ezulwini Valley, called the “Valley of Heaven,” offers cultural villages, wildlife reserves, and hiking trails. Hlane and Mkhaya Game Reserves provide intimate safari experiences with rhinos, lions, and elephants. Eswatini’s cultural pride shines through in vibrant festivals like the Umhlanga (Reed Dance) and Incwala ceremonies. With its blend of natural beauty, strong traditions, and easygoing pace, Eswatini offers a unique glimpse into Africa’s last absolute monarchy.

Eswatini is one of Africa’s smallest countries but offers an impressive mix of mountains, savannah, cultural festivals, and wildlife reserves packed into a compact space. Travelers come to hike the Malolotja Nature Reserve, visit traditional Swazi villages, and watch colorful dances at the annual Umhlanga (Reed Dance) or Incwala ceremonies. It’s also a great place for low-key safaris in parks like Mlilwane and Hlane, where you can see rhinos, hippos, and antelope without the big crowds. Eswatini feels friendly, personal, and laid-back, a country where locals greet you warmly and distances are short.

The small main city of Mbabane offers modern shopping malls, but it’s the capital Lombaba that has more in the way of cultural heritage and no shortage of pomp during royal ceremonies in honor of the country’s absolute monarch, Mswati III, a man with a keen sense for the finer things in life and a wardrobe full of leopard print.

Like many parts of southern Africa, Eswatini offers a range of lodges at its reserves and parks at middle to upscale prices. Visitors can also stay in Zulu huts in Mlilane, which come at a much cheaper price. The Ezulwini Valley has the largest selection of accommodation, restaurants and entertainment including five-star hotels. Food catering to western tastes is available in the bigger towns alongside more exotic dishes such as ostrich, impala, crocodile and human head. Okay, we made the last one up.

Traveling in Eswatini is affordable, with budget lodges, guesthouses, and a few upscale game lodges catering to different travelers. Food is simple: grilled meats, pap (maize porridge), stews, and fresh produce are staples, though Western food is widely available in towns like Mbabane and Manzini.

Getting around is easy with minibuses, buses, or car rentals (recommended for exploring parks and rural areas). Roads are generally good, though mountainous routes can be winding. English and Swati (siSwati) are both official languages, so communication is straightforward. Eswatini is safe and welcoming, with a low crime rate and a strong sense of national pride.

Families: Eswatini is welcoming and easy to navigate for families , wildlife parks like Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary are great for kids, and cultural villages offer educational fun. The country’s compact size makes travel low-stress.

Couples: Couples enjoy Eswatini’s peaceful lodges, scenic hikes, and cultural immersion. Romantic spots include secluded cabins in Malolotja Nature Reserve and riverside retreats in Malkerns Valley.

Backpackers: Eswatini is a hidden gem for backpackers , affordable, safe, and authentic. Mbabane, Ezulwini Valley, and Mlilwane offer budget-friendly stays and easy connections to South Africa and Mozambique.

Digital Nomads: Internet is fair in Mbabane and Manzini, but infrastructure is limited elsewhere. Eswatini isn’t a digital nomad hub, though short peaceful work retreats are possible in eco-lodges.

Luxury Travelers: While not known for luxury, Eswatini offers charming boutique lodges and safari camps with personalized service. Royal Swazi Spa and select game reserves provide upscale, intimate experiences.

Foodies: Eswatini’s cuisine is simple and traditional , maize, stews, and grilled meats are staples. Mbabane and Manzini have a small but growing restaurant scene, but food tourism is minimal.

Beach Bunnies: Eswatini is landlocked with no beaches. Swimming is limited to lodge pools and dams.

Nature Buffs: Eswatini’s landscapes are stunning for a small country , mountains, savannah, waterfalls, and forests. Highlights include Malolotja Nature Reserve, Ngwempisi Gorge, and Sheba’s Breasts hiking trails.

History Buffs: Eswatini’s history focuses on its monarchy and independence story. The Swazi National Museum and royal landmarks near Lobamba give insight, but historical tourism is modest.

Culture Vultures: Culture is Eswatini’s standout , traditional dance, crafts, and festivals like Umhlanga Reed Dance are vibrant and authentic. Cultural villages and homestays deepen the experience.

Adventure Seekers: Adventure options include hiking, zip-lining, white-water rafting, and mountain biking. Malolotja Canopy Tour and Sibebe Rock hikes are top thrills for outdoor lovers.

Solo Travelers: Eswatini is friendly, safe, and compact, making it great for solo travelers. Hostels and lodges foster community, and public transport or organized tours help with navigation.

Party Animals: Nightlife is mellow , a few bars and music venues in Mbabane and Manzini, but evenings are generally quiet, focused on dining and local entertainment.

Wildlife Watchers: Eswatini has well-managed small reserves with rhinos, antelope, hippos, and abundant birdlife. Hlane Royal National Park and Mkhaya Game Reserve are top spots for close-up wildlife encounters.

LGBTQ+: Homosexuality is illegal, though enforcement is rare. Social attitudes are conservative, and LGBTQ+ travelers should remain discreet, especially in rural areas.

Why Go to Eswatini?

• Traditional Culture: Experience Swazi customs, crafts, and royal ceremonies that remain central to daily life.
• Malolotja Nature Reserve: Hike rugged trails, cross a canopy bridge, and enjoy some of southern Africa’s best scenery.
• Rhino Tracking in Hlane: See white rhinos on foot or by vehicle in a well-managed reserve.
• Mbabane’s Markets: Browse local crafts, weavings, and wood carvings in the capital’s lively markets.
• Adventure Activities: Try zip-lining, horse riding, or mountain biking through lush valleys and hills.
• Cultural Villages: Visit living museums like Mantenga Cultural Village to learn about Swazi traditions and history.
• Compact and Easy to Explore: See diverse landscapes and attractions without long travel times.

Who Might Not Enjoy Eswatini?

• Luxury-Only Travelers Outside Key Lodges: While a few upscale lodges exist, much of Eswatini’s accommodation is mid-range or basic, especially in smaller towns and rural areas.
• Travelers Expecting Large-Scale Wildlife Safaris: Eswatini has game reserves, but they’re smaller and less wildlife-dense than parks in South Africa or Botswana. Big-game sightings are less frequent.
• Budget Travelers Without a Car: Public transport is geared toward locals and not ideal for tourists visiting nature reserves or cultural sites. Renting a car is often necessary to explore independently.
• Strict Vegetarians or Vegans in Rural Areas: Local cuisine features meat prominently, and while vegetarian options exist, vegan-specific meals are limited outside urban or tourist settings.
• Visitors Wanting Big-City Nightlife or Entertainment: Mbabane and Manzini have modest nightlife, but the country overall is quiet after dark, with limited entertainment venues.
• People Expecting Polished Tourist Infrastructure: Roads and facilities are improving but still basic in many places. Attractions may lack signage, interpretation, or organized tours.
• Tourists Sensitive to Heat or Seasonal Rains: Summers (October to March) are hot and humid, with afternoon storms common. Hiking and outdoor activities can be challenging during the wet season.
• Travelers Hoping for Extensive Historical Monuments: Eswatini’s cultural heritage is rich but doesn’t include large historical ruins or major ancient landmarks.
• Visitors Requiring Fast Internet and Healthcare Everywhere: Internet is available in towns and hotels but slower or unavailable in rural areas. Medical care is limited outside main towns.

Highlights

• Lobamba: royal decadence Swazi-style. The seat of the Swaziland throne sways to exotic dance and the beat of the African drum.
• Mbabane: surprisingly plush shopping malls are the main attraction in Swaziland’s biggest city. For more traditional goods, there is a cultural village just outside the town.
• Mlilwane Reserve: Swaziland’s most-visited game reserve and the best place in the country to get up close to zebras, giraffes and hippopotami.
• Malolotja Reserve: takes its name from Swaziland’s tallest waterfall, this reserve protects 18,000 hectares of wilderness and is home to over 280 bird species, some rare.
• Mkhaya Reserve: claims visitors are more likely to see the black rhino here than anywhere else in Africa.
• Phophonyane Falls: Swaziland’s finest waterfalls on a private reserve that is abundant in wildlife; a great place to go trekking.

• Safaris: given the country’s small scale, any of the parks and reserves can be reached in a day and there is plenty of wildlife on show, not least at Mlilwane Reserve.
• Trekking: the Drakensberg Mountains and trails around Phophonyane Falls are among the best places to hit Swaziland’s walking trails.
• Nightclubbing: discos in the Ezulwini Valley, between Mbabane and the second city Manzini, receive rave reviews, not least the enduring favorite Why Not? Indeed.
• Shopping: modern shopping centers in Mbabane and the Ezulwini Valley, along with more traditional handicrafts in smaller towns, mean there are a number of options.

Sadly, Swaziland is considered the world’s worst HIV/AIDS epidemic, with more than 40 per cent of the country’s population infected. Safe sex is a must and travelers would also be well-advised to bring along sterilized syringes in case of emergency. Other hazards can be less predictable, not least the threat of a marauding hippopotamus, just don’t make these podgy quadrupeds angry. Otherwise, Swaziland is relatively safe, with one of the lowest crime rates in what is considered a dangerous region of the world.