Rock Climbing in China

Yangshuo has been China’s climbing base since foreign climbers began bolting its towers in the early 1990s, and it is still the only place in the country with a full international climbing scene: gear shops, guiding outfits, a café with a new-routes logbook and climbers from everywhere staying for weeks. Most crags lie along the road south of town towards Moon Hill and along the Yulong River, all within a short scooter or bicycle ride.

• Moon Hill: the landmark arch, with 25 to 50 routes on and around it, many of them steep and long. Arrive early to beat the tourist crowds on the stairs.
• White Mountain: a big overhanging wall with some of the hardest routes in China, including the 5.14d (9a) Spicy Dumpling, and moderate lines on its flanks.
• Lei Pi Shan: a tall, shady wall with long, technical routes in the 6s and 7s, one of the best spots on hot days.
• Butterfly Spring and Wine Bottle: popular sectors for mid-grade sport climbing close to town.

The Getu River valley in Ziyun county, about three to four hours by road from Guiyang via Anshun, is China’s other world-class sport area. Its centrepiece is a huge cave arch, the Great Arch, whose roof routes run upside down for 50 m and more; the international Petzl RocTrip of 2011 bolted many of them and put Getu on the map. Easier walls line the valley around the village, so mixed-ability groups have plenty to do.

The valley is also home to the “spider men”, Miao villagers who climb the cliffs without ropes, a tradition that began with collecting medicinal herbs and swiftlet nests and is now a demonstration for visitors. Getu is still rural: simple guesthouses, limited gear for sale and no rental shops to rely on, so bring a full rack of quickdraws and a 70 m or 80 m rope. Spring and autumn are best; summers are hot and wet.

Liming sits in the Laojunshan area of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain region, about three hours by road from Lijiang. Its red sandstone walls are split by clean cracks, and the climbing is mostly traditional, placing your own protection, with some bolted lines. It is often compared to Indian Creek in Utah. Bring cams; there is little or no gear hire.

Haba Snow Mountain (5,396 m), above Haba village near Tiger Leaping Gorge in Shangri-La county, is the most popular first snow peak in China. The usual route takes three to four days with a night at base camp (about 4,100 m) and an early summit push up a glacier slope. It is non-technical in good conditions but needs crampons and an ice axe, and most climbers go with a licensed local guide from the village.

Mount Siguniang, the Four Sisters, rises above Rilong town about five hours from Chengdu. Dafeng (5,025 m) and Erfeng (5,276 m) are trekking peaks climbed in two or three days, while the higher Sanfeng and Yaomei Feng (6,250 m) are serious technical objectives. Guides are compulsory, permits go through local outfitters, and overnight trips in the park are allowed only from March to November; check the current rules before you plan.

Muztagh Ata (7,546 m), on the Karakoram Highway near Kashgar, is one of the most accessible 7,000 m peaks in the world, and its broad slopes are often climbed and skied in July and August. It is an expedition peak: you need a permit arranged by an agency through the Xinjiang mountaineering association, plus a border-area pass. The north side of Mount Everest is also climbed from Tibet, but permits for foreigners are expensive and frequently restricted. See our world climbing guide for the big peaks.

Baihe canyon, about two hours north of Beijing past Miyun Reservoir, is the capital’s main outdoor crag, with a few hundred sport and trad routes on granite and limestone, best in spring and autumn. Access to some walls has been restricted since a 2018 ban, so ask at a Beijing gym which crags are open. Every big city, including Beijing, Shanghai, Chengdu and Shenzhen, now has modern bouldering and lead gyms, the easiest way to meet local climbers and hear about crags that are too new for any guidebook.

• When to go: Yangshuo is best from about October to March, with cool, dry days; summer is hot, humid and wet. Getu, Liming and Beijing are best in spring (April to May) and autumn (September to November). High peaks are climbed mainly from June to October. Avoid the 1 to 7 October Golden Week, when crags and trains are packed. See China’s best time to visit.
• Courses and guides: Yangshuo outfits run half-day introductions, multi-day lead courses and guided days; prices are usually a few hundred yuan for a half-day intro session. Haba and Siguniang guiding is usually sold as a package with permits, gear and transport.
• Gear: Yangshuo shops rent and sell full kits. Elsewhere, bring everything, including a rope of at least 70 m and a full set of draws.
• Getting there: high-speed trains run to Yangshuo and Guilin from Guangzhou in under three hours; see getting around China for booking.
• Bolts: many older routes were bolted with steel that corrodes in the humid south. Inspect anchors and do not trust single old bolts.