Old TownThe Old Town is a compact tangle of medieval closes and narrow streets built along the Royal Mile from Edinburgh Castle down towards Holyrood. The area contains most of the city’s tourist staples, the castle, St Giles’ and several national museums and galleries, so expect crowds around the main thoroughfares.
By day the Royal Mile and Grassmarket are full of street performers, souvenir shops and guided tours; by night the Grassmarket, Cowgate and the closes light up with traditional pubs, whisky bars and a handful of late-night clubs. There’s plenty of dining from casual cafés to atmospheric old dining rooms, and the steep cobbles and narrow lanes give the area its character.
Old Town at a Glance
Medieval lanes and the Royal Mile, the classic place to stay for first-time visitors who want castles, museums and lively pubs.
- Best for: First-time visitors and history buffs
- Vibe: Historic, touristy and lively by night
- Nearest station: Edinburgh Waverley
- Price level: $$-$$$
- To the main sights: On the Royal Mile, steps from the castle and museums
- Safety: Generally safe; watch belongings in crowds
Who's Old Town For?
Great for:
- History and architecture sightseeing
- First-time visitors wanting central location
- Festival-goers during August
- Short walking tours and museums
Maybe skip it if:
- You want quiet, residential evenings
- You need modern shopping malls and designer boutiques
Getting Your Bearings in Old Town
The Old Town runs along the Royal Mile from the castle to Holyrood; key streets include High Street, Victoria Street, the Grassmarket and Cowgate.
Plan Your Visit to Old Town
- Cobbled streets: Wear sensible shoes, many streets are uneven and steep.
- Book ahead: Reserve restaurants and tours during August festival or school holidays.
- Watch your bag: Busy tourist spots attract pickpockets; keep valuables secure.
- Weather: Bring a rainproof layer, conditions change quickly.
- Noise at night: Expect pub noise late into the evening near Grassmarket and Cowgate.
Things to Do in Old Town
- Edinburgh Castle: Dominant hilltop fortress with panoramic views and historic displays including the Crown Jewels.
- Royal Mile: Historic route linking the castle and Holyrood, packed with shops, museums and street performers.
- St Giles’ Cathedral: Striking medieval church on the Royal Mile with notable stained glass and architecture.
- Scottish National Gallery: National collection of fine art a short walk from the lower Royal Mile.
- Camera Obscura & World of Illusions: Optical exhibits and a rooftop vantage point over the city.
- Grassmarket: Historic square beneath the castle with terraces, pubs and an open-air market.
How to Get to Old Town
- Edinburgh Airport: Public transport: take the Airlink 100 express bus to Edinburgh Waverley (around 30-40 minutes; fares vary, roughly a few pounds). Alternatively use Edinburgh Trams to the city centre (about 30-40 minutes; fares vary). Taxi/ride-hail: typically 25-35 minutes to the Old Town depending on traffic; expect a fare in the mid tens to low thirties in pounds.
- From the main sights: From Edinburgh Castle the Old Town is immediately below, most attractions on the Royal Mile are a very short walk downhill; Waverley station is a short walk from the lower Royal Mile.
Getting Around Old Town
- On foot: Most Old Town sights are within easy walking distance but prepare for cobbles, steps and steep inclines.
- Public transport: Buses and the tram serve the edges of the Old Town; Waverley station links to national trains and city buses.
- Taxis and cycling: Taxis are plentiful around Waverley; cycling is possible but streets can be narrow and crowded.
Where to Stay in Old Town
Staying in the Old Town puts you within walking distance of the castle, museums and nightlife. Hotels range from boutique and luxury on the Royal Mile to mid-range chains and lively hostels tucked into the closes; prices climb during festival season.
Luxury
- The Scotsman Hotel: Grand hotel beside Waverley with heritage rooms and easy walking access to the Royal Mile.
- Hotel du Vin: Stylish, characterful option close to the Royal Mile with an atmospheric dining room.
- Virgin Hotels Edinburgh: Contemporary upscale hotel a short walk from the Old Town’s main streets.
- Radisson Collection Royal Mile Edinburgh: Large, well-situated hotel on the Royal Mile with spacious rooms and central access to sights.
Mid-range
- Apex Edinburgh City: Reliable mid-range rooms close to the Grassmarket and Royal Mile.
- Hilton Edinburgh Carlton: Comfortable chain hotel within easy walking distance of the Royal Mile.
- DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Edinburgh City Centre: Chain hotel offering modern rooms a short stroll from the Old Town attractions.
- Radisson Blu Hotel: Popular mid-range option near Waverley station and the lower Royal Mile.
Budget
- Kick Ass Hostels: Central, social hostel ideal for young travellers wanting to be in the heart of Old Town.
- Safestay: Well-known hostel close to the Royal Mile with dorms and private rooms.
- Castle Rock Hostel: Budget option positioned very near the Grassmarket and castle.
- St Christopher’s Inn: Lively hostel on the edge of the Old Town, popular with backpackers.
Where to Eat in Old Town
The Old Town mixes traditional Scottish taverns with international eateries and tourist cafés along the Royal Mile and Grassmarket. Expect a range from cheap cafés and bakeries to more formal, atmospheric dining rooms; most places are busiest at lunchtime and evening service.
- The Elephant House: Coffee shop famous with tourists; casual and affordable ($).
- Cafe Andaluz: Tapas restaurant near the Royal Mile offering Spanish plates in a relaxed setting ($$).
- Dishoom: Popular Indian restaurant with a buzzy atmosphere and moderate prices ($$).
- The Witchery: Atmospheric, high-end dining beneath the castle in a historic setting ($$$$).
- The Outsider: Modern British restaurant with views over the lower Royal Mile and cathedral ($$).
- Deacon’s House Cafe: Small café for breakfasts and light lunches close to the main tourist route ($).
- Half-Cut Coffee: Compact independent coffee shop for quick drinks and pastries ($).
Nightlife in Old Town
Old Town’s nightlife is centred on the Grassmarket, Cowgate and the closes around the Royal Mile, with an abundance of traditional pubs, whisky bars and a few late-night clubs. Pubs often host live folk music; the district gets busiest after 10pm, especially during festival season.
- Sandy Bell’s: Longstanding folk music pub popular with locals and tourists alike.
- The World’s End: Historic-sounding pub on the Royal Mile with a lively atmosphere.
- Whiski: Whisky-focused bar offering a broad selection and warm interiors.
- Bow Bar: Small traditional pub known for real ales and whiskies in a cosy setting.
- La Belle Angèle: Nightclub near the Royal Mile popular with a younger crowd.
- Sneaky Pete’s: Small, influential late-night venue for DJs and underground music.
Shopping in Old Town
Shopping in the Old Town leans towards souvenirs, traditional crafts and markets rather than big-brand malls. Head to the Royal Mile for tartan, whisky shops and local crafts; open-air market stalls cluster at Grassmarket and in Tron Kirk.
- Grassmarket Market: Open-air market in the Grassmarket square selling crafts and local goods.
- Tron Kirk Market: Central market space on the Royal Mile with stalls and pop-ups.
- Edinburgh Farmers’ Market: Weekend market for local food producers a short walk from the Royal Mile.
- TK Maxx: Department-style store for discounted clothing and homewares near the Old Town.
- Marks & Spencer: Reliable department store for groceries, clothing and travel essentials.