Leith sits on Edinburgh’s northern waterfront where old warehouses and wharves have become restaurants, bars and apartments. The Shore is the district’s heart, a narrow, dockside street of terraces that fills with diners and pub-goers in fair weather.
Ocean Terminal is the large shopping and ferry complex that provides views across the Firth of Forth and is home to the berthed royal yacht, HMY Britannia. By day Leith feels industrious and local, with markets and cafes; by night the waterfront lights up and the pubs and restaurants draw crowds.
Leith at a Glance
Working harbour turned foodie quarter - best for seafood, waterside dining and maritime museums.
- Best for: Seafood, waterside dining and maritime museums
- Vibe: Laid-back docks with buzzy restaurants and local pubs
- Nearest station: Edinburgh Waverley (bus or 25-30 minute walk)
- Price level: Mid-range to upscale
- To the main sights: About 20-30 minutes to the Royal Mile by bus or taxi
- Safety: Generally safe; busy and lively at night on weekends
Who's Leith For?
Great for:
- Seafood lovers and food-focused travellers
- People who like waterside pubs and evening strolls
- Visitors to HMY Britannia and maritime attractions
- Those who want a slightly quieter base than the Old Town
Maybe skip it if:
- You need to be in the very centre for late-night theatre runs
- You want a rural, peaceful retreat far from nightlife
- You dislike walking or short bus rides into the city centre
Getting Your Bearings in Leith
Leith sits on Edinburgh’s northern waterfront, north-east of the Old Town. Leith Walk and Commercial Street link the docks to the city centre; Ocean Terminal and The Shore hug the water.
Plan Your Visit to Leith
- Book ahead: Reserve The Kitchin and other popular restaurants well in advance.
- Bring layers: Waterfront evenings can be chilly and breezy even in summer.
- Market days: Check Leith Market dates for the best local food stalls and events.
- Walk the docks: The best way to soak up Leith is to wander The Shore and harbour edges.
- Transport: Buses are the most convenient way into the city centre; services are frequent.
Things to Do in Leith
- HMY Britannia: Tour the former royal yacht and learn about its life at sea and state visits alongside Ocean Terminal.
- Walk The Shore: Stroll the dockside terrace to sample seafood restaurants, cafes and watch small boats in the basin.
- Ocean Terminal: Browse shops and eat with harbour views; there are occasional events and exhibitions.
- Leith Market: Visit on market days for local food stalls, crafts and weekend street food.
How to Get to Leith
- Edinburgh Airport: Public transport - Take the tram or Airlink 100 into the city (York Place or Waverley), about 30-40 minutes; then change for a short bus to Leith or walk 20-30 minutes. Fare ranges roughly £4-7. Taxi/ride-hail - direct taxi to Leith takes 20-35 minutes depending on traffic; expect a fare in the mid-£20s to £40s.
- From the main sights: From the Royal Mile/Old Town take a regular bus along Leith Walk to The Shore (about 20-30 minutes) or a taxi (10-15 minutes). Buses are frequent and cheap; taxi fares are modest for the short trip.
Getting Around Leith
- On foot: Leith is compact: The Shore, Commercial Street and Ocean Terminal are all walkable, with many sights best explored on foot.
- Buses: Frequent Lothian buses run between Leith and the city centre; use them for quicker trips to Princes Street and the Royal Mile.
- Taxis and ride-hail: Useful late at night or if you’re carrying shopping, short fares to central Edinburgh.
- Cycling: Flat and bike-friendly routes along the waterfront and into central Edinburgh.
Where to Stay in Leith
Leith’s accommodation clusters around Ocean Terminal and The Shore, with options from boutique luxury on the docks to practical mid-range hotels and guesthouses. Waterfront rooms give good views and easy evening access to restaurants. Prices trend from mid-range upwards, with some premium options for special occasions.
Luxury
- Fingal: A luxury hotel converted from an elegant historic ship, right on the waterfront; ideal for a memorable, characterful stay.
- Malmaison: Boutique hotel in a converted riverside building close to The Shore, with a brasserie and distinctive bedrooms.
Mid-range
- Holiday Inn Express Edinburgh-Waterfront: Reliable mid-range chain close to Ocean Terminal, convenient for the ferry terminal and waterfront restaurants.
- Ocean Mist: A small hotel near the docks that keeps you close to The Shore and seafood restaurants.
- Rooms at GPO: Comfortable 3-star option a short walk from the main Leith streets and bus links into the city.
- Merith House Hotel: A local mid-range hotel a little further in, offering straightforward rooms and easy access to the promenade.
Budget
- 4 Friends House: Budget guest house within easy walking distance of the waterfront and pubs.
- Pillars House: Guest house offering basic, affordable rooms close to Leith’s dining stretch.
- Ocean Inn: Simple guest house a short stroll from The Shore and the waterfront.
- Just Sleep Hostel: Hostel accommodation for travellers on a tight budget; useful if you don’t mind being slightly further out.
Where to Eat in Leith
Leith is one of Edinburgh’s best neighbourhoods for seafood and waterside dining, with restaurants lining The Shore and around Ocean Terminal. You’ll find everything from Michelin-starred tasting menus to casual fish-and-chip shops; expect price levels from $ to $$$$. Book popular spots in advance for weekend evenings.
- The Kitchin: Cuisine: Scottish; Price: $$$$; Tom Kitchin’s Michelin-starred restaurant focusing on seasonal Scottish produce.
- The Ship On The Shore: Cuisine: Seafood; Price: $$$; Classic waterside seafood restaurant on The Shore.
- Fishers: Cuisine: Seafood; Price: $$; Well-known local fish-focused restaurant near the docks.
- Season Quayside: Cuisine: Restaurant; Price: $$; Casual waterfront dining with harbour views.
- teuchters landing: Cuisine: Burger and fish and chips; Price: $-$$; Popular pub-restaurant right on the water.
- The Little Chartroom: Cuisine: Restaurant; Price: $$$; Small, well-regarded dining room a short walk from the Shore.
- Barry Fish: Cuisine: Fish; Price: $; Simple and reliable fish-and-chips and takeaway seafood.
- Cafe Domenico: Cuisine: Italian; Price: $-$$; Local cafe close to the waterfront serving breakfasts and light meals.
Nightlife in Leith
Nightlife in Leith centres on The Shore and nearby streets, where pubs and bars spill onto terraces in summer. Expect a friendly, local scene rather than big-club nights; many places stay open late on weekends. Pricing is generally moderate.
- Teuchters Landing: Waterside pub popular with locals and students, lively on match days and weekends.
- Roseleaf: Traditional pub on The Shore with a relaxed, cosy atmosphere and outdoor seating.
- Lost in Leith: Bar right on the waterfront that draws an evening crowd for drinks and music.
- The Keelson: Stylish bar close to the docks, known for a good cocktail and wine list.
- Port of Leith Distillery Bar: Small bar attached to the distillery, good for tasting local spirits and a quieter drink.
- The Granary: A friendly pub near The Shore that fills up in the evenings with a mixed crowd.
Shopping in Leith
Shopping is a side interest in Leith: Ocean Terminal is the main mall with high-street shops and eateries, while Leith Market offers local food, crafts and weekend stalls. Independent delis and specialist shops cluster on The Shore and neighbouring streets.
- Ocean Terminal: Large waterfront shopping centre with high-street stores, cafes and views across the Firth of Forth.
- Leith Market: Local market with food stalls, crafts and occasional special events on market days.
