The French Tower

lighthouse in Cambodia. The Old French Lighthouse (11.98°N, 105.47°E) is a historic navigational structure associated with the French period; visitors come for its historic interest and viewpoint. Generally visited as a short day trip from nearby towns.

• Visit early morning or late afternoon for cooler temperatures and the best light - sunrise/sunset from the old French lighthouse gives sweeping views across Kep, the Gulf and (on clear days) Phu Quoc.
• Access the site from Kep National Park (the park entrance by Kep's crab market is the usual starting point) - the lighthouse is a short uphill walk from the park road, and the park charges a small entrance fee, so check opening hours before you go.
• Most visitors only stop at the crab market; take the short trail up to the lighthouse and you'll get quiet viewpoints and panoramic vistas that many miss, so allow 30-60 minutes extra for the climb and photo stops.
• To avoid crowds, go on a weekday morning or late afternoon rather than midday; combining the lighthouse visit with a quick stop at the crab market or nearby pepper farms makes for an efficient half-day itinerary.

The French built this colonial tower on the bank of the Mekong opposite Kampong Cham in the early 1900s, beside what is now the Kazuna bridge. Its design shows a Moorish influence, and its purpose has shifted repeatedly over the past century.

Conceived as a defensive lookout, it was first used to watch the cargo boats plying the Mekong. A line ran from the governor’s house to the tower, and whenever there was an emergency in town a fire would be stoked on top of the watchtower to raise the alarm. Its role today is more prosaic: when tourist buses arrive in Kampong Cham, the tower signals local taxi drivers that fares are on the way.

Only the shell of the lighthouse now remains, but a steep staircase lets visitors climb to the top. The ascent is nerve-wracking and surprisingly sharp, yet the view rewards the effort: the Mekong winding through the countryside, fishermen casting their nets, and traffic crossing the Kazuna bridge, much the same scene watchmen admired a century ago.