Cycling in New Zealand

The Otago Central Rail Trail follows the old branch line from Clyde to Middlemarch through the Maniototo and Ida Valley, crossing viaducts and passing through two short tunnels in the Poolburn Gorge. Grades never exceed about 1 in 50, so it suits families and first-timers. Most people ride it over three to five days, sleeping in old hotels and farm stays in Ophir, Lauder, Ranfurly and Hyde, with luggage carried ahead by an operator. The open high country is baking hot in January and February, so start early.

The Alps 2 Ocean is the longest of the Great Rides at about 300 km. Riders start either at Aoraki / Mount Cook village, where the trail begins with a short helicopter hop across the Tasman River, or at Lake Tekapo. It follows canals and lakeshores past Lake Pukaki and Twizel, climbs to its high point above Lake Ōhau, then drops through Omarama, past the Omarama Clay Cliffs and down the Waitaki Valley wine country to the Pacific at Oamaru. Most riders take four to six days. Some sections are still on quiet roads; the views of the Southern Alps across turquoise lakes are the best on any trail in the country.

The Queenstown Trail links Queenstown, Arrowtown, the Gibbston wine valley and Lake Wakatipu on about 130 km of smooth paths. The Arrow River bridges ride from Arrowtown to Gibbston, finishing at the Kawarau bungy bridge and a winery, is the favourite day out. The Around the Mountains trail starts with a steamer ride across the lake to Walter Peak and heads into empty high country.

Queenstown is also New Zealand’s mountain bike resort: the Skyline gondola carries bikes to a network of downhill trails above town, and Coronet Peak opens its lifts to bikes in summer. Wānaka has lakeside tracks and the riding at Bike Glendhu.

The West Coast Wilderness Trail runs about 133 km from Greymouth to Ross through rainforest, old gold workings and past lakes, with Hokitika halfway. It is mostly easy to intermediate and takes three or four days.

The Great Taste Trail loops from Nelson through Richmond and the Waimea plains to Mapua, Motueka and Kaiteriteri, with cafés, wineries and orchards all the way and the edge of Abel Tasman National Park at the far end. It is flat, sunny and easy to break into day rides.

Near Picton, the Queen Charlotte Track follows the ridges of the Marlborough Sounds for about 70 km. It is an advanced ride with steep climbs, and water taxis drop you at the start and carry your bags. Part of it closes to bikes in the December to February peak, and a pass is needed for sections that cross private land.

Rotorua is the North Island’s riding capital. The Whakarewarewa Forest, which includes the Redwoods, has well over 100 km of graded single track on the edge of town, free to ride, with hire shops and shuttles at the trailheads. The Skyline gondola runs a downhill park as well.

The Timber Trail crosses the Pureora Forest for about 85 km on old logging tramways, with tall suspension bridges over the gorges, usually in two days. The Great Lake Trail runs along cliffs above Lake Taupō, partly reached by water taxi. Further south, the Mountains to Sea trail descends from Mount Ruapehu through Whanganui National Park to Whanganui, passing the Bridge to Nowhere, with a jet-boat section on the river.

For easy riding, the Hauraki Rail Trail runs flat from Thames to Paeroa and through the Karangahake Gorge, including an old railway tunnel about 1 km long, and the Hawke’s Bay Trails link Napier, Hastings and the wineries on 200-odd km of flat paths. In the far north, the Twin Coast Cycle Trail crosses Northland from the Bay of Islands to the Hokianga Harbour.

Touring cyclists ride every highway in the country, but New Zealand roads are narrow, with little or no shoulder, and summer traffic includes campervans driven by people new to the left side of the road. The classic climbs are the Crown Range between Queenstown and Wānaka, the highest main road in the country at 1,076 m; Haast Pass from Wānaka to the West Coast; and Arthur’s Pass, whose west side above Ōtira is very steep. The narrow, unlit Homer Tunnel on the Milford Road needs bright lights and nerve. Many tourers mix quieter back roads and Great Rides with buses or trains for the busy links; the TranzAlpine and InterCity coaches carry bikes for a fee if there is room. See our getting around guide for both.

• Bike hire: standard bikes cost about NZ$50 to 60 a day (about 30 to 35 USD) and e-bikes about NZ$100 to 130 on the popular trails, with multi-day discounts. Most hire firms will also shuttle you to the start and carry luggage between nights.
• Packages: self-guided Rail Trail and Alps 2 Ocean packages with bike, accommodation and bag transfers are the easiest way to do them, and book out for December to March.
• Helmets: wearing an approved helmet is compulsory by law for all cyclists, on roads and trails. Lights are required after dark.
• Road rules: ride on the left, no more than two abreast, and single file when traffic needs to pass. Riding on footpaths is not allowed.
• Grades: Great Rides are graded 1 (easiest) to 5 (expert). Check the grade of each section, not just the trail.
• When to go: November to April for the South Island, with Central Otago very hot in mid-summer and cold in winter. Rotorua and the northern trails ride all year.