Old Ghost Road

A high, remote, hut-to-hut ride through the Buller District that rewards strong riders with exposure, history, and wilderness.

Time to Ride: Most riders plan it as a 2 to 3 day hut-to-hut trip, with stronger groups sometimes doing it faster and others taking extra time for weather.

Best Time to Go: Apr-Oct is the usual riding window, when days are longer and the high points are more reliably accessible.

Getting there: Most riders start at Lyell (off State Highway 6) and finish at Seddonville, using a shuttle or a second vehicle to link the trailheads.

Costs: Budget for transport logistics (shuttle or car reposition), accommodation in huts or lodges en route, and food to be fully self-sufficient between stops.

Difficulty: Hard. It is rated “advanced” (Grade 4 out of 5) and is the technically most difficult of the New Zealand Cycle Trail projects, with remote consequences if something goes wrong.

The Old Ghost Road threads deep into the backcountry of the West Coast and the Buller District, climbing to an alpine high point at 1,280 m before dropping toward the Mokihinui River and out to Seddonville. Expect long stretches of narrow, benched trail, big weather, and a strong sense of isolation.

Its story is tied to the West Coast gold rush of the early 1860s and the planned but never completed “Lyell and Mokihinui Road” surveyed in 1886. Earthquakes including the 1929 Murchison earthquake and the 1968 Inangahua earthquake helped render parts of the old route inaccessible, and later exploration and volunteer work helped revive the corridor as a modern track.

The modern trail was part-funded as a New Zealand Cycle Trail project and is notable for blending heritage, engineering, and wilderness riding. Highlights are the high traverse sections, the hut-to-hut rhythm, and the contrast between ridgeline riding and the forested river valleys around the Mōkihinui Gorge.

• Stage 1: Lyell to Lyell Saddle (approx. 20-30 km) - A steady climb on historic alignment with a consistent gradient, setting the tone for an “earn your views” ride.
• Stage 2: Lyell Saddle to higher traverse sections (approx. 10-20 km) - Higher, more exposed riding where weather can change quickly; timing and layers matter.
• Stage 3: higher traverse to mid-valley huts (approx. 10-20 km) - A classic backcountry traverse with narrow benched track and a remote feel away from roads.
• Stage 4: mid-valley to lower-valley sections (approx. 10-20 km) - Rugged terrain where line choice and braking control pay off; expect trail features that match an advanced (Grade 4) rating.
• Stage 5: upper-river approach to Mokihinui Forks (approx. 10-20 km) - The character shifts toward the river catchment, with more shelter but still a true backcountry commitment.
• Stage 6: Mokihinui Forks to Rough & Tumble Lodge (approx. 5-15 km) - A shorter linking section many riders use to break up the exit, depending on bookings and daylight.
• Stage 7: Rough & Tumble Lodge to Seddonville (approx. 5-15 km) - The final run out of the gorge area, typically faster going as you approach the coast road network.

(Exact kilometre points vary by mapping source - on-the-ground trail signage and operator info are the best way to finalise daily targets.)

The usual season is Apr-Oct. Conditions can still be volatile at higher elevations, and the trail’s high point (1,280 m) means cold wind, low cloud, and heavy rain can arrive quickly even when the coast feels mild.

Crowds are generally manageable compared with city-proximate trails, but hut beds can be a pinch point - weekends and holiday periods are the times most likely to feel busy. Treat this as a serious backcountry ride: check forecasts, be ready to wait out weather, and plan conservatively for daylight.

The trail sits in the Buller District on the West Coast of New Zealand’s South Island. The most common access towns are Westport (for services and shuttles) and Murchison (for links to State Highway 6).

Most people ride westward from Lyell to Seddonville as a one-way trip, then use a commercial shuttle or a pre-arranged vehicle shuffle. If you are flying, look for connections via regional airports serving the wider top of the South Island and plan ground transport to the trailheads.

Expect to book accommodation in advance if you plan to stay in huts or at Rough & Tumble Lodge. but you should expect to book accommodation in advance if you plan to stay in huts or at Rough & Tumble Lodge. Carry what you need between resupply points - this is not a ride where you can rely on frequent shops.

Bike hire and shuttles are commonly arranged through operators in Westport and nearby towns. The route is signposted as a dedicated backcountry trail, and the riding surface is predominantly narrow singletrack with technical sections consistent with an advanced Grade 4 rating; an e-bike is only a good idea if it is suitable for long, remote, technical trail and you have an appropriate charging plan (often, you will not).

Most riders do the Old Ghost Road hut-to-hut, using backcountry huts and shelters, with some itineraries including Rough & Tumble Lodge closer to the Mōkihinui Gorge end. Facilities are geared toward overnight self-sufficiency rather than town-style comfort.

Book ahead, especially for weekends and peak-season dates in Apr-Oct. If you prefer a simpler logistics plan, base yourself in Westport (or nearby settlements) before and after the ride and use a shuttle to avoid moving your car.