Cycling in South Korea

The cross-country route links four paths. It starts at the Ara West Sea Lock in Incheon and follows the Ara canal and the Han River through Seoul, then the Namhangang (South Han) upstream to Chungju. The Saejae path crosses the only serious climb, the Ihwaryeong pass, into the Nakdong valley at Sangju, and the long Nakdong path runs south past Gumi and Daegu to the estuary in Busan.

Most riders take five to eight days at 80 to 120 km a day. The route is signed throughout, with blue paint lines on the path, and a few sections share quiet country roads or cross dams with short sharp climbs. Motels (look for the “모텔” signs) usually cost about 40,000 to 70,000 won (30 to 50 USD) a night in small towns, and convenience stores sell food and water at most villages.

Seoul has continuous bike paths along both banks of the Han River, through parks such as Yeouido, Banpo and Ttukseom, with convenience stores and bike rental stands along the way. Ttareungyi, the city’s public bike system, has thousands of green bikes at docks across the city; a one-hour day pass costs 1,000 won (under 1 USD) and foreigners can pay through the app. Weekends are busy, so ride early.

East of the city, the path continues past the Paldang dam to Yangsuri in Yangpyeong, where the North and South Han rivers meet, a popular half-day out. The Bukhangang (North Han) path then follows the river and old railway lines to Chuncheon, about 70 km more, and you can take the train back to Seoul.

The east coast bike path runs down the Gangwon coast from Goseong near the DMZ through Sokcho, Yangyang and Gangneung to Samcheok, with a continuation into North Gyeongsang. It mixes seaside paths, fishing harbours and small hills, and passes surf beaches and pine forests. Gangneung, two hours from Seoul by KTX, is the easiest base. It can be windy and hot in summer, and some stretches run on roads with traffic.

The Jeju Hwandae bike path circles Jeju Island for about 234 km along the coast, through black lava shores, villages and beaches, with stamp booths of its own. Most people ride it anticlockwise from Jeju City in three or four days, staying in Seogwipo and the coastal villages. The north and west sides are flat; the south is hillier. Wind is the main challenge. Bike shops in Jeju City rent touring bikes and can carry luggage between overnight stops.

In Gyeongju, the old Silla capital, cycling is the best way to link the royal tombs, Cheomseongdae observatory and the lake at Bomun, with rental shops near the bus terminal and the tumuli park. Bulguksa is a steep climb from the city. The Geum River path through Gongju to Gunsan, the Yeongsan River path from Damyang through Gwangju to Mokpo, and the Seomjin River path, lined with cherry and plum blossom in spring, are quieter alternatives to the Nakdong for riders collecting the full set of stamps.

Korean road cyclists ride in clubs at dawn on weekends. Around Seoul the classic climbs are Bukak Skyway and Namsan, and the big mountain passes are in Gangwon: Hangyeryeong in Seoraksan and the high roads near Pyeongchang. The Seorak Granfondo around Inje is the country’s best-known mass ride.

Mountain biking is limited. Bikes are generally not allowed on national park hiking trails, and most riding is on forest roads and a few dedicated MTB parks at ski resorts in summer.

• Certification passport: sold for about 4,000 won at staffed certification centres, including the Ara West Sea Lock. Stamp every booth, then get the route certified at a centre for a sticker; medals for the full cross-country and Grand Slam are extra.
• Bike hire: Ttareungyi in Seoul and public bikes in several other cities; day rentals at riverside stands. Few shops rent touring bikes for a week, so bring your own or buy in Seoul.
• Trains and buses: intercity and express buses will often take bikes in the hold if there is space. Folding bikes can go on most trains; full-size bikes are limited, so check before you travel.
• Subway: in Seoul, bikes are allowed only at weekends and on public holidays, in the first and last cars, and never on Line 9.
• Navigation: Naver Map and Kakao Map show the bike paths; Google is unreliable in Korea.
• Costs: see our travel costs guide.

Ride on the right. Helmets are required by law on bike paths, though there is no fine. Paths get crowded with fast club riders and walkers on weekends; ring your bell and pass with care. Ride carefully across the dams and the occasional road sections, where drivers are not used to cyclists. Summer brings heat, humidity and the July monsoon, which can flood riverside paths. The best time to visit guide has the weather by month.