Climbing in North America
Rock climbing and mountaineering in North America, from Yosemite and Red Rocks to the peaks of Alaska.
For rock climbers, North America is holy ground. This is the continent that shaped modern climbing, where the sport’s techniques, ethics and grading systems were forged on soaring granite walls and sun-baked desert towers. From beginner-friendly boulders to the biggest big walls on Earth, the range of world-class rock here is simply staggering.
The American West is the epicentre, with the granite of Yosemite, the sandstone of Utah, the volcanic rock of the desert Southwest and the limestone of the Southeast all within reach. Canada adds superb coastal and alpine climbing, while Mexico offers long, sunny limestone routes that draw climbers escaping the northern winter.
Whether you dream of hauling up El Capitan, cranking desert splitter cracks, bouldering on perfect granite or clipping bolts on endless sport routes, there is a lifetime of climbing here. Add reliable weather, a deep-rooted climbing culture and easy access, and it is little wonder these destinations top so many bucket lists.
North America's Great Climbing Destinations#
Yosemite National Park, USA The spiritual home of big-wall climbing, where the sheer granite faces of El Capitan and Half Dome tower nearly a vertical mile above the valley floor. Every serious climber dreams of the polished cracks and slabs here, the proving ground for generations of pioneers.
Joshua Tree National Park, USA A high-desert wonderland of golden granite domes and boulders scattered among Dr Seuss-like yucca trees. Thousands of short, sharp, crystal-studded routes and endless bouldering make it one of the great winter climbing destinations in the US.
Moab, Utah, USA The gateway to a desert climber’s paradise, surrounded by the splitter sandstone cracks of Indian Creek and a forest of freestanding towers. Jamming a perfect parallel-sided crack against a backdrop of red rock and blue sky is a rite of passage here.
Squamish, Canada A world-class granite destination on the road between Vancouver and Whistler, dominated by the vast cliff of the Stawamus Chief. Superb crack climbing, friction slabs and some of the best bouldering in Canada draw climbers from around the globe.
Bishop, California, USA A high-desert town at the foot of the Sierra Nevada that has become one of the planet’s premier bouldering destinations. The volcanic Happy and Sad Boulders and the granite Buttermilks offer everything from mellow warm-ups to fearsome highball testpieces.
New River Gorge National Park, USA A stunning river canyon in West Virginia lined with more than 1,400 sandstone sport and trad routes, considered some of the best hard climbing in the eastern US. Bullet-hard rock and a gorgeous forested setting make it a rite of autumn for climbers.
Smith Rock State Park, USA The birthplace of American sport climbing, a dramatic volcanic tuff canyon in central Oregon where bolt-protected face climbing first took hold. Steep, technical routes and the iconic Monkey Face pinnacle keep it firmly on the climbing map.
Red Rock Canyon, Nevada, USA A stunning sweep of red and cream sandstone escarpment just minutes from the Las Vegas Strip, offering everything from single-pitch sport to soaring multi-pitch adventures. Winter sun and endless quality rock make it a cold-season favourite.
Devils Tower, Wyoming, USA A colossal volcanic monolith rising abruptly from the plains, its sides scored by hundreds of parallel columns that form some of the finest crack climbing in the country. Summiting this sacred, otherworldly tower is an unforgettable experience.
Red River Gorge, Kentucky, USA A steep, pocketed sandstone paradise beloved by sport climbers for its overhanging, jug-hauling routes deep in Appalachian forest. Relaxed campgrounds and a legendary community atmosphere make ‘the Red’ a pilgrimage.
El Potrero Chico, Mexico A soaring limestone canyon near Monterrey that comes alive in winter, famous for its long, well-bolted multi-pitch routes on golden rock. Warm sun, cheap living and hundreds of pitches make it a magnet for climbers fleeing the cold.
The Shawangunks, New York, USA Known simply as ‘the Gunks’, a spectacular band of white quartzite cliffs in the Hudson Valley famed for its improbable horizontal roofs and huge jugs. Steeped in history, it is the premier trad climbing area of the northeastern US.
Rumney, New Hampshire, USA New England’s premier sport-climbing crag, a compact but densely bolted schist cliff that has produced some of the hardest routes in the country. Its friendly, focused scene makes it a favourite weekend destination.
Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, USA A historic sandstone canyon near Boulder whose steep, committing traditional routes have tested climbers for over a century. The blend of exposure, quality rock and rich climbing heritage gives ‘Eldo’ an almost mythical status.