Pura Sakenan

Pura Sakenan (Pura Dalem Sakenan) stands among mangroves and old trees on the north-west shore of Serangan, the island off the south coast between Sanur and the airport. Its shrines are built largely of pale coral stone, and the main compound is laid out in walled courtyards entered through a split gate (candi bentar) and a roofed inner gate.

Its origins are told in different ways. Some traditions credit Mpu Kuturan, the priest said to have organised Bali’s village temples in the 11th century, and others Dang Hyang Nirartha, who travelled the island in the 16th century; both are central figures in the shaping of Balinese Hinduism.

For most of the year the temple is quiet and makes a pleasant short stop on a visit to Serangan. Everything changes at Kuningan, the closing day of the Galungan festival period, which comes round every 210 days in the Balinese calendar and is also the temple’s anniversary festival. Thousands of worshippers from across the south arrive in ceremonial dress with offerings, for a day of prayer, music and dance. Pilgrims once walked across the mudflats at low tide or crossed by outrigger boat; since the island was joined to Bali by a causeway in the 1990s, most come by road.

Wear a sarong and sash, and on festival days keep clear of the processions and the inner courtyards.