At Long Dong, on the northeast coast of New Taipei, the cliffs start where the waves stop. The rock is a hard, quartz-rich conglomerate that climbers call sandstone but that grips more like granite, and its sectors line a headland facing the Pacific, with snorkellers and divers in the coves below. It is Taiwan’s one big outdoor crag, about an hour and a half from Taipei.
Beyond it the scene is small and local: limestone sport crags around Kaohsiung in the south, a strong indoor culture in Taipei and Taichung, and the island’s real vertical attraction, its mountains. More than 200 peaks in the Central Mountain Range top 3,000 m, and Yushan (3,952 m) and Xueshan (3,886 m) are non-technical summits that need permits rather than ropes.
Climb from October to May. Summer brings heat, afternoon storms and typhoons, and the sea cliffs turn greasy in the humidity.
At a Glance#
- Main crag: Long Dong on the northeast coast of New Taipei, several hundred trad and sport routes on sea cliffs, with grades centred on 5.10.
- Southern sport climbing: bolted limestone at Dagangshan and the QianGuang Temple crag near Kaohsiung.
- Indoor climbing: bouldering and rope gyms across Taipei and Taichung, the easiest way to meet local partners.
- Mountaineering: Yushan in Yushan National Park and Xueshan in Shei-Pa National Park, two-day hut hikes with permits.
- Longer expeditions: the multi-day traverse to Nanhu Dashan and the remote east-side summit of Xiuguluan.
- Season: October to May for rock, with autumn the best; October to December and March to May for high peaks.
Long Dong#
Long Dong (Dragon Cave) sits inside the Northeast and Yilan Coast National Scenic Area between Bitou Cape and the beach town of Fulong. The cliffs reach about 80 m, split into named sectors along the coastal path: School Gate, the Clocktower, Long Lane, Music Hall, the Grand Auditorium, the First and Second Caves, Golden Valley and Backdoor. Routes are either trad lines with bolted anchors or sport routes with lower-offs, and most sport routes take natural gear too, so a light rack opens up far more of the crag. Grades are fair up to about 5.11 and get sandbagged above that. There is good bouldering on the boulders by the water.
The rock is unusually solid for sea cliffs, with quartz crystals that give excellent friction when dry. Salt air corrodes fixed gear, so inspect anchors and never top-rope directly through fixed hardware. A peregrine falcon nesting closure usually shuts one central section from February to June; signs at the trail mark it.
Getting there is the awkward part. The direct bus from Taipei has stopped running, so most climbers drive, take a taxi from Keelung, or take the train to Fulong and a local bus or taxi from there. Fulong and Jiufen have guesthouses, and Bitou has a few small rooms; camping at the crag is not officially allowed. Weekends in autumn are busy with Taipei climbers, which is a good time to find partners.
Kaohsiung and the south#
The south climbs on limestone: steep, pocketed rock with the odd tufa, all bolted sport routes. The main crags near Kaohsiung are the QianGuang Temple crag, reachable by public transport and a short walk, and Dagangshan, a limestone ridge northeast of the city with around 20 routes. Skyline has another set of bolted lines. The once-popular crags on Shoushan, the monkey-filled hill above the harbour, are closed to climbing, so check current access with local climbers before you go.
The southern season is short. From November to March the weather is dry and pleasant; by May the heat on limestone becomes oppressive, and summer typhoons add washouts and rockfall.
Taipei and Taichung gyms#
Taipei has one of the busiest indoor climbing scenes in East Asia, with bouldering gyms and rope walls spread across the city, including a large public wall at the Neihu Sports Center. Gyms rent shoes and chalk, sell day passes, and run beginner sessions; prices vary by gym, so check before you go. Taichung and Kaohsiung have their own bouldering gyms. Gym notice boards and climbing shops in Taipei are where you find partners for Long Dong, buy the current guidebook and rent outdoor gear.
Yushan and Xueshan#
Yushan, the highest mountain in Northeast Asia, is a steep but non-technical hike: about 8.5 km from the Tataka trailhead to Paiyun Lodge on day one, then a pre-dawn climb to the summit at 3,952 m and a long descent. The lodge is the limiting factor. It costs NT$480 (about 15 USD) a night, and caps entry at 60 people a day. Foreigners can apply for 24 reserved beds from Sunday to Thursday, 35 days to four months ahead, which skips the lottery that decides everyone else’s place about a month before. A shuttle from the Paiyun Mountaineering Center to the trailhead costs NT$150.
Xueshan, Taiwan’s second-highest peak, is climbed from Wuling Farm in Shei-Pa National Park, usually over two days with a night at Qika Cabin or 369 Cabin and a summit push through the glacial cirque at dawn. It needs the same national park entry permit, applied for online. For both mountains, also register a mountain entry permit with the police, which is free and usually done online alongside the park application.
Longer routes and the 100 Peaks#
Taiwanese hikers collect the Baiyue, a list of 100 peaks over 3,000 m. Many of the best are multi-day routes with camping or basic huts: Nanhu Dashan (3,742 m), a three- to five-day trip through alpine meadows and glacial cirques; the Qilai ridge, known for its knife-edge sections; and Xiuguluan (3,825 m), the highest summit in eastern Taiwan and one of the most remote. Most of these need a guide or an experienced Taiwanese partner, as signage is in Chinese and weather on the ridges changes fast. For something easier, the Hehuan Mountain peaks are 3,000 m summits a short walk from the highest road pass in Taiwan. Our national parks guide covers the parks around them.
Costs, gear and guides#
- Gear hire: climber hostels and guiding services near Long Dong rent basic gear; bring your own shoes and harness if you can, and your own rack if you plan to climb trad at Long Dong.
- Guides: Taipei outfitters run guided days at Long Dong with transport and gear, and mountain guiding companies offer Yushan and Xueshan trips with permits arranged. Book guided mountain trips weeks ahead, since the permits are the bottleneck.
- Guidebook: Matt Robertson’s Rock Climbing Taiwan covers Long Dong and other crags; buy it from a Taipei climbing shop.
- Costs: Paiyun Lodge is NT$480 a night; the permits themselves are free. Taiwan is otherwise moderate; see our costs guide.
- Insurance: make sure your policy covers climbing and hiking above 3,000 m.
Typhoons and closures
From July to October typhoons can close mountain roads and trails for days, and national parks cancel permits during warnings. Check the Central Weather Administration forecast before any coastal or high-mountain trip, and keep a spare day. Parts of the east, including much of Taroko National Park, have had trail closures since the 2024 Hualien earthquake.
Apply for Paiyun Lodge on the foreigner quota for a weekday, then book a refundable night near Tataka for the evening before. If a typhoon cancels the permit, you lose little.
For when to come, see our best time to visit Taiwan page. For the wider region, read our guides to climbing in East Asia, climbing in Asia and the world’s best mountains for climbing.
Best places to climb in Taiwan#
More Things to Do#
Taiwan rock climbing FAQs#
Where is the best rock climbing in Taiwan?
Long Dong on the northeast coast of New Taipei, about 90 minutes from Taipei, with several hundred trad and sport routes on solid sea cliffs. The limestone sport crags near Kaohsiung are the main alternative.
When is the climbing season in Taiwan?
October to May, with autumn the best for friction and stable weather. Winter at Long Dong can be cold and windy, and summer is hot, humid and prone to typhoons.
Do I need a permit to climb Yushan?
Yes. You need a Yushan National Park entry permit and a bed at Paiyun Lodge, plus a free police mountain entry permit. Foreigners can apply for 24 reserved weekday beds 35 days to four months ahead, without going through the lottery.
Is Long Dong trad or sport climbing?
Both. Many routes are trad with bolted anchors, others are bolted sport lines, and most sport routes can also be protected with natural gear. Bring a light rack to get the most out of the crag.
Can I rent climbing gear in Taiwan?
Yes. Climber hostels and guiding services near Long Dong rent basic gear, and gyms rent shoes and chalk. Bring your own shoes and harness if you can, and a rack if you want to lead trad at Long Dong.