Phnom Da

Phnom Da is a water-girdled hill in Takeo province that was one of the earliest major religious sites in Cambodia. Pre-Angkorian history is hazy, but it is clear that the surrounding area was a leading religious centre in the kingdom’s formative years. A temple atop the hill is believed to have been dedicated by Rudravarman (r. 514-550), one of the last great Funan-era kings, though the present sandstone and brick structure dates to the 11th century and carries some notable bas-relief carvings.

A short distance away, on a smaller peak to the south-west, stands Ashram Maha Rosei, dating to the 7th or 8th century, a period when Chinese scribes referred to Funan as “Water Chenla”. Both its architecture and its statuary differ markedly from later Angkorian styles, and most of the art found here has since been moved to the museum at Angkor Borei. Also on the hill are five artificial caves, first cut as Hindu shrines, later used by the Viet Cong during the Vietnam War and reputedly used as cremation sites under Pol Pot. The temples may lack the abundant decoration of Angkor, but the solitude of the setting and the weight of history make the visit worthwhile, and the boat ride out is a pleasant chance to spot waterfowl and other wildlife.