Ella City

Sri Lanka’s laid-back hill-country darling - a small town amid tea plantations, waterfalls and misty peaks, reached by one of the world’s most beautiful train journeys.

Why go / don’t miss: the iconic Nine Arch Bridge (with its passing trains), the sunrise hike up Little Adam’s Peak and the tougher Ella Rock, the Ravana Falls and cave, the tea factories and plantations, and the spectacular hill-country train to/from Kandy and Nuwara Eliya.

Neighborhoods: the compact town strung along its main street; with hikes and tea country all around.

Getting around: the town is walkable; tuk-tuks, the scenic train, and rented scooters for the sights.

When to go: Dec - Mar (the drier season for the hill country) is best; it’s cool year-round.

Where to stay: along or just off the main street, or a view-facing guesthouse in the hills.

Dining: a mellow café-and-traveller scene alongside Sri Lankan rice and curry, kottu and hoppers.

Local tips: hike Little Adam’s Peak at dawn, catch a train crossing the Nine Arch Bridge, and the train journey here is one of the world’s most scenic (sit on the right from Kandy).

Ella is the feel-good highlight of Sri Lanka’s hill country - a small, easygoing town where you can hike to jaw-dropping viewpoints in the morning, watch a train chug across a century-old stone bridge in the afternoon, and swap stories in a café by night. The cool climate, the tea-carpeted hills and the famously scenic railway that brings you here all add up to one of the most relaxing and rewarding stops on the island.

• Nine Arch Bridge - the photogenic colonial-era viaduct in the jungle; time it for a passing train.
• Little Adam’s Peak - an easy, spectacular hike (best at sunrise) to a ridge with sweeping views.
• Ella Rock - a longer, tougher climb rewarded with the region’s finest panorama.
• Ravana Falls and Ravana Cave - a roadside waterfall and a cave tied to the Ramayana legend.
• Tea plantations and factories - tour a working tea estate and taste Ceylon tea.
• The train ride - the journey between Kandy, Nuwara Eliya (Nanu Oya) and Ella is itself a top attraction.

Ella sits in the hills, so it’s cool and green year-round, but the driest and clearest weather generally runs from December to March. The inter-monsoon months can bring afternoon mist and rain, which has its own atmosphere but can obscure the views. Mornings are usually clearest - ideal for the sunrise hikes. Whenever you visit, bring a light layer for the cool evenings, and be prepared for the odd shower in this misty highland climate.

The classic way to arrive is by train: the hill-country line from Kandy via Nuwara Eliya (Nanu Oya) to Ella is regularly rated one of the world’s most beautiful rail journeys, winding through tea estates and cloud forest (book a reserved seat ahead, and sit on the right coming from Kandy). Buses and private drivers also serve Ella from Kandy, Nuwara Eliya and the south coast. The town itself is small and walkable; tuk-tuks and rented scooters reach the trailheads, waterfalls and tea estates.

Ella has a wide range of backpacker hostels, guesthouses and boutique hotels, many perched on the hillsides with valley or Ella Gap views. Staying just outside the centre gets you the best views and the quiet, while the main street puts you among the cafés and tour offices. Book ahead in the December - March high season, and consider a view-facing room - waking up to the misty Ella Gap is part of the magic.

Ella’s compact main street is lined with traveller-friendly cafés and restaurants serving everything from Sri Lankan classics to Western comfort food and healthy bowls. Don’t miss authentic Sri Lankan rice and curry, kottu roti, hoppers and fresh tropical-fruit juices. Several places offer Sri Lankan cooking classes. It’s a relaxed, sociable scene - great for lingering over a meal with a view after a morning hike.