Virgin Beach

Virgin Beach, known locally as Pasir Putih (White Sand) or Pantai Perasi after the nearest village, is a long arc of pale sand tucked between steep, wooded headlands east of Candidasa. White sand is rare on Bali’s volcanic east coast, where most beaches are grey or black, and this is one of the prettiest in the region.

A lane winds down from the main road through hills, coconut palms and rice fields to a parking area above the bay, followed by a short walk down to the sand. Along the back of the beach a row of simple warungs serves grilled fish and cold drinks, sun loungers are set out for rent, and traditional jukung outriggers are pulled up on the sand.

The sea is usually calm enough for swimming, and there is snorkelling over the rocks at either end when visibility is good, though conditions change with the swell and currents can pick up around the headlands. Once almost empty, the beach is now a well-known stop, busy at weekends and on holidays with local families as well as day-trippers from Candidasa and Amlapura. A weekday morning gives you the quietest sand.

Virgin Beach is signposted off the coast road between Candidasa and Amlapura, near the village of Perasi, about 20 minutes’ drive from Candidasa. Hire a driver or a scooter; the final lane is steep and narrow, so less confident riders should park at the top and walk down. It combines well with the Bali Aga village of Tenganan or the water palace of Taman Ujung for a half day in the area.