Rock Climbing in Thailand

Railay is the heart of Thai climbing. The peninsula has four small beaches: Phra Nang with its fertility-shrine cave, Railay West and Railay East, and Tonsai around the headland. Crags start metres from the bungalows, with names climbers know worldwide: the Thaiwand Wall’s multi-pitch lines above Phra Nang, the beginner-friendly walls of One Two Three and Muay Thai on Railay East, and the overhanging sectors behind Phra Nang where the grades climb into the 8s. The rock is sharp limestone covered in tufas and stalactites, so routes are steep and pumpy rather than technical.

Tonsai, a short walk at low tide or a boat hop away, is the grittier, cheaper neighbour, a magnet for serious climbers with famously powerful overhangs and the Tonsai Roof. Accommodation is mostly simple bungalows in the jungle behind the beach, and evenings revolve around slacklines and fire shows. Several resorts and bungalows have closed or changed in recent years, so book ahead in high season.

Deep-water soloing, climbing ropeless on sea cliffs above deep water and falling into the sea, is a Krabi speciality. Half-day and full-day boat trips from Railay and Ao Nang visit the overhanging karst islands nearby, and the sport suits anyone who can swim, since most first routes are only 5 to 10 m above the water. Go at high tide, and only with an operator that knows the depth under each line.

On Ko Phi Phi, some walls rise straight from the sea and are belayed from the boat deck, and inland crags such as Tonsai Tower are a short walk from the village, a good escape from the island’s crowds. Ko Yao Noi, in the middle of Phang Nga Bay between Phuket and Krabi, has quiet bolted crags on the island and on offshore karst towers, sheltered water for deep-water soloing and a slow rural pace with almost no mass tourism.

Crazy Horse Buttress, about 30 minutes east of Chiang Mai, is the north’s main crag: several sectors and more than 100 bolted routes across the grades, caves and shaded walls that stay climbable even in the warmer months, and new lines still being developed. Chiang Mai climbing shops run day trips with transport, gear and instruction, and multi-day courses. The north’s season is the same as the south’s, and the cool mornings of December and January give the best friction.

Chiang Dao, 80 km north, is better known for the 2,175 m peak of Doi Chiang Dao, but a hill-tribe community there maintains a small climbing area with a growing set of bolted routes on excellent limestone. The setting is remote, cool and quiet, a real contrast to the beach crags.

Khao Yoi in Phetchaburi, about 90 minutes from Bangkok, is the capital’s favourite day and weekend crag. The limestone face has a good spread of routes, shared with resident monkeys and plenty of mosquitoes, so bring repellent and check older bolts before committing to a lead.

Khao Kra Lok, nicknamed Skull Mountain, sits near the beach resort of Hua Hin in Prachuap Khiri Khan province, with sea views from several bolted routes, hard bouldering and a large natural arch, an easy add-on to a Gulf-coast beach holiday.

Around Lopburi, Khao Jeen Lair is a 180 m limestone face developed over the past decade with about 40 varied routes. Access runs through the grounds of a working temple, and the monks appreciate climbers who greet them before and after a session. Other Lopburi crags range from friendly beginner routes to steep, pumpy lines and fill with Bangkok climbers at weekends; keep an eye on your gear at the base, because the town’s macaques will. At Pak Chong, on the edge of the Khao Yai highlands, a cave in one face serves local monks as a meditation chamber; ask permission when they are present, and note that the main route deliberately stops below a Buddha image. Do not climb above it.

• Courses: a half-day introduction costs about 1,000 to 1,500 baht, a full day about 2,000 baht, and a three-day lead-climbing course about 6,000 to 7,000 baht, all with gear.
• Gear hire: a full kit (rope, harness, shoes, quickdraws) rents for a few hundred baht a day in Railay, Tonsai and Chiang Mai. Bring your own shoes if you can; rental sizes run small.
• Guidebooks: buy the current Thailand or Krabi climbing guide in a Railay shop; route names and bolt updates change often.
• Bolts: salt air corrodes steel fast. Many Railay routes have been rebolted with titanium, but always inspect anchors on older lines, and never lower straight through a single old bolt.