Pura Kehen

Pura Kehen stands on a hillside in Cempaga, on the northern edge of Bangli town, and is one of the largest and most striking temples in eastern Bali. It was the state temple of the old Bangli kingdom, and its layout follows the slope: three courtyards rise one above the other, linked by steep stone stairways.

The approach is the most dramatic part. A long flight of steps lined with carved figures leads up to the main gate, which is crowded with demon faces and guardian statues. In the outer courtyard a huge banyan tree spreads over the walls, with a kulkul (wooden alarm drum) tower set among its branches. Look at the walls as you climb: pieces of Chinese porcelain plates are pressed into the plaster, and how they came to be here is still debated.

The inner courtyard holds the most sacred shrines, including a tall eleven-tiered meru. The cosmic turtle Bedawang, carved at the base of the shrines, symbolises the foundation of the world. From the upper terraces there are views over the temple roofs to the surrounding countryside.

Kehen sees far fewer visitors than the big temples of the south, so it is usually calm. A sarong and sash are required, and they can be bought opposite the entrance.

Pura Kehen is about 2 km north of central Bangli, on the road that continues up to the Batur caldera, so it fits easily into a drive between the south and Batur and Kintamani. It is under an hour by car from Ubud; most visitors come with a hired driver or by scooter.

Pura Kehen dates back to around the 11th century, making it one of the older temple foundations in Bali, although its shrines have been rebuilt many times since. Inscriptions associated with the temple mention the fire god Hyang Api, and the name Kehen is usually traced to keren, a word for fire or hearth. Three small bronze drums kept at the temple point to a very long history of worship on the site.

For the Bangli royal house, Kehen was the most important temple in the realm, and it still draws large crowds for its temple anniversary ceremonies, when the courtyards fill with offerings, music and dance. The traditional village of Penglipuran, known for its neatly ordered house compounds, lies a few kilometres to the north and makes a natural pairing with a visit.