Siula Grande

Siula Grande is a 6,344-metre peak in the Cordillera Huayhuash of central Peru and is widely known in mountaineering circles for its steep faces and technical routes.

Climbers travel to the Huayhuash circuit to approach Siula Grande’s glaciers and technical routes; attempts require high-altitude alpine climbing skills and glacier travel experience. Base camps are reached by multi-day treks through high mountain terrain, and conditions are glaciated and often severe.

The mountain’s west face and surrounding glaciers are of particular interest to technical alpinists and ski-mountaineers, but routes are remote and objective-hazard prone, requiring careful logistics and local permits where applicable.

Local Andean peoples long knew the peaks of the Huayhuash; Western climbing expeditions began in the 20th century. The mountain gained worldwide attention after the 1985 expedition by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates, whose survival story on the west face was published as ‘Touching the Void.’

Siula Grande lies in the Department of Huánuco within the Cordillera Huayhuash of central Peru, amid a cluster of high peaks and glacial lakes. Access is by road and trekking routes from highland villages that serve as logistical bases for climbing the range.

• Elevation and range: Summit elevation is 6,344 metres, and the mountain is a landmark of the Cordillera Huayhuash range in central Peru.
• Notable ascent: The 1985 climbing and survival story of Joe Simpson and Simon Yates on the west face is internationally famous through the book and film ‘Touching the Void.’

• Attempt Siula Grande only in the dry season (roughly May-September) when avalanche and storm risk is lower; the peak is a technical 6,344 m climb that requires prior high‑altitude experience and alpine-grade equipment.
• Acclimatize in Huaraz (or other high-altitude towns) for several days before moving to the Huayhuash approach; many problems on Siula arise from inadequate acclimatization rather than technical difficulty alone.
• Organize a climb or trek with an experienced local guide or licensed outfitter familiar with the Huayhuash logistics, permits and base‑camp approaches-independent attempts into this remote range are logistically demanding and rescue resources are limited.