Nullarbor Plain

The Nullarbor is a vast, flat area of exposed limestone stretching across the border between South Australia and Western Australia; the formation covers roughly 200,000 square kilometres and at its widest reaches more than 1,000 kilometres east to west. It is famous as the world’s largest single exposure of limestone bedrock and for its very sparse tree cover.

Indigenous Mirning and Yinyila people seasonally occupied parts of the plain for millennia; European exploration and crossing history includes Edward John Eyre’s difficult crossing in 1841. Pastoral leases such as Rawlinna and Madura have been established on the fringes, while large tracts are now protected as wilderness areas.

Geologically the Nullarbor is a former shallow seabed with extensive karst features, caves and some coastal blowholes; the Murrawijinie Cave in South Australia is open to the public while many western caves require permits. Visiting the Nullarbor feels remote and elemental: long horizons, sparse shrubland, occasional wildlife and clear night skies, with settlements, roadhouses and stations separated by long distances.

• Bunda Cliffs and Great Australian Bight coast: Steep coastal cliffs and sweeping ocean views where the limestone plain drops to the Southern Ocean provide dramatic scenery and marine-visit opportunities.
• Murrawijinie Cave and blowholes: A publicly accessible coastal cave and nearby blowholes show the karst nature of the plain and pounding southern swells.
• The vast treeless plain: Walking or photographing the flat, almost treeless expanse gives a strong sense of scale and isolation unique to the Nullarbor.
• Meteorite fields and dry-country wildlife: The arid climate preserves meteorites and supports saltbush and bluebush scrub with occasional sightings of birds and reptiles adapted to the plain.
• Historical crossing sites and pastoral stations: Sites associated with early European crossings and large sheep stations like Rawlinna and Madura mark human use of this remote landscape.

Nearest larger towns on the South Australian side include Ceduna to the east and Fowlers Bay on the coast, while Eucla and Esperance lie to the west in Western Australia; regional airports serving the area include Ceduna Airport and Esperance Airport. The sealed Eyre Highway provides the main east-west road across the plain and is the usual route for self-drive visitors.

The Trans-Australian Railway also crosses the Nullarbor and an interstate passenger service runs between Adelaide and Perth, offering an alternative way to experience the crossing; the final stretches in any direction involve long distances between services, so travel by car or rail requires planning for fuel, supplies and timing.

• Fuel, food and water are sparse across the plain; carry ample supplies and top up at every roadhouse or town.
• Mobile phone coverage is patchy or non-existent in many places; carry a satellite communicator or detailed paper maps for true remote travel.
• Obtain permits before visiting restricted caves on the Western Australian side and respect closures to protect karst habitats and cultural sites.
• Watch for wildlife on roads at dawn and dusk and take care on long straight sections where fatigue is a hazard.
• Prepare for extreme temperature swings and check seasonal conditions before travel, as both heat and near-freezing nights are possible.