Hemis Festival

When: June - July each year (movable; dates vary with the Tibetan lunar calendar).

Where: At Hemis Monastery near Leh in Ladakh, India.

Cost: Free to attend; small donations to the monastery are customary and photography may incur a fee.

Don’t miss: The masked cham dances and the dramatic unveiling of the giant thangka.

Hemis Festival is the main annual religious celebration at Hemis Monastery outside Leh in Ladakh, India. It marks the birth and deeds of Guru Padmasambhava and has been observed for centuries by local Ladakhi Buddhists and visiting nomads.

During the festival monks perform ritual cham (masked) dances, accompanied by long horns, drums and chanting; the atmosphere mixes solemn liturgy with boisterous local pilgrimage. Events centre on the monastery courtyard and nearby assembly grounds, while temporary stalls and pilgrims’ camps appear around the site.

The festival falls in June - July; because it follows the Tibetan lunar calendar the exact dates move each year and local announcements set the programme. The main cham performances occur on the festival’s peak day or days, with the giant thangka typically unveiled at dawn on a designated morning.

International travellers usually fly into New Delhi and then take a domestic flight to Leh’s Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport; from Leh Hemis Monastery is roughly a 45 - 60 minute drive by taxi or shared jeep. Arrive 2 - 3 days before the festival to acclimatise and book flights and accommodation well in advance to allow for weather delays.

• Respect monastery rules: ask before photographing monks or rituals, avoid flash photography inside prayer halls and do not touch ritual items.
• Prepare for altitude at Leh: rest on arrival, drink plenty of water and avoid strenuous exertion for the first 48 hours.
• Dress in layers and modest clothing suitable for cold nights and strong sun; sturdy walking shoes are essential for dusty slopes around Hemis Monastery.
• Expect crowds and limited facilities: bring water, snacks, sunscreen and a hat; early mornings and late afternoons are best for clearer light and fewer people.
• Carry cash for donations, transport and market purchases - ATMs are limited and may run out of cash during busy periods.
• Book flights and guesthouses months ahead and allow extra buffer days for flight cancellations due to mountain weather.