Cirque of the Unclimbables

The Cirque of the Unclimbables sits in the Ragged Range, a subrange of the Mackenzie Mountains, and contains nearly two dozen named peaks, spires and towers carved by glaciation at the end of the last ice age. The compact walls, steep rims and free-standing towers give the area a Yosemite-like granite character that earned it the nickname “The Forgotten Yosemite.”

Climbing history dates to the early 1950s, with notable first ascents through the 1950s and 1960s and the Lotus Flower Tower becoming one of the region’s most famous routes after publication in climbing literature. Many classic and hard alpine routes were established later, and the cirque still draws experienced alpinists seeking long, committing climbs on cold, clean granite.

Visiting is an expedition-style experience: approach is typically by floatplane onto Glacier Lake or by multi-day river and creek travel into the cirque. Wildlife in summer includes woodland caribou, Dall’s sheep, mountain goats and bears, and the terrain combines exposed rock, alpine meadows and glacial cirques.

• Lotus Flower Tower: A slender, photogenic granite tower famous for long, classic technical routes that feature in North American climbing history.
• Bustle Tower: A solitary spire rising from the cirque that is a popular objective for technical climbers and a striking subject for photography.
• The First, Second and Third Cirques: Walk or scramble to high viewpoints for sweeping views of concentric cirque walls, spires and the glacier-carved amphitheaters.
• Glacier Lake approach: The floatplane landing spot that provides close-up views of the cirque rims and is the usual base for climbing parties.
• Wildlife and alpine flora: Summer visits can include sightings of Dall’s sheep and alpine wildflowers on meadows below the cliffs.

The usual staging point is Fort Simpson, the nearest service community; air access to the region is generally via Fort Simpson Airport. There is no rail access to the area - long-distance travel is by road to Fort Simpson followed by charter air or river arrangements.

The final approach is by charter floatplane to Glacier Lake or by river travel and small-boat/raft movement up Brintnell Creek and nearby waterways; both options require booking a charter or joining an outfitted expedition and expect multi-day river travel if not flown in.

• This is remote backcountry - arrange a floatplane charter or a guided river approach and confirm logistics with Parks Canada or local outfitters.
• The area lies within a national park reserve - check Parks Canada regulations and permit requirements before travel.
• Routes are technical and committing - bring full alpine rock-climbing gear and only attempt routes within your ability or with an experienced guide.
• Plan extra days for weather delays and carry bear safety equipment and knowledge; wildlife encounters are possible in summer.
• Expect many mosquitoes near water in summer and pack appropriate insect protection.