Pura Beji Sangsit

Pura Beji sits among the rice fields of Sangsit, a village just east of Singaraja. It belongs to the local subak, the farmers’ cooperative that shares out irrigation water, and it is dedicated to Dewi Sri, the goddess of rice and fertility. A beji is a sacred spring or bathing place used for purification.

What draws visitors is the decoration. Almost every surface is carved with foliage, flowers and fantastical creatures in the extravagant North Balinese style, and some details show Chinese influence alongside the Hindu imagery. It is a small temple, easily seen in half an hour, but a fine example of how ornate a village temple can be.

A heavily ornamented split gate, guarded by scowling demons framed in carved lotus blossoms, leads into the inner courtyard. Just inside stands the aling-aling, a wall wrapped in carved serpents that blocks the direct line of sight, since evil spirits are said to be unable to turn corners.

Beyond it, in the innermost courtyard, is the shrine of Dewi Sri. Take time to look at the walls and the bases of the pavilions, where the carving is at its densest, and look out for the Ramayana figures as you leave.

Sangsit’s second temple, Pura Dalem, is the village temple of the dead and lies a few minutes’ walk away through the rice fields. It is plainer than Pura Beji, but its walls carry vivid reliefs of the punishments awaiting sinners in the afterlife, drawn from the tale of Bima’s journey to rescue his parents’ souls. There is often nobody on duty, so the gates may be locked; it is worth the short walk to try.

Sangsit lies about 6 km east of Singaraja, on the seaward side of the coast road. Most people visit by hired car or scooter from Lovina or Singaraja, combining it with Pura Dalem Jagaraga and Pura Meduwe Karang further east. Wear a sarong and sash, and leave a small donation.