Phrae is a provincial city in northern Thailand with a charming old city skirted by a partial moat. Its backwater status is a boon as tourists can enjoy quiet walks through temple courtyards and quaint backstreets.
Teak was a major commodity in years past, and there's plenty of teak architecture on display in the old city. The oldest temples are purely Lanna style, with very little infusion from central Thai kingdoms. There are moments when you'll feel like you're visiting a temple in Myanmar or Laos.
The most important temple is Wat Luang at the city centre. Its counterpart, Phra That Phra Lo, is well outside the city limits. Further afield is Mae Yom National Park, a great place to walk among giant teak trees or to shoot the rapids on Yom River. North of town is Phae Meuang Pii, a striking natural area dotted with ghastly rock formations.
There's a small airfield in Phrae with charter flights available to Bangkok (roughly one hour), but the main way to get to and from the city is by bus or train. VIP coaches reach Chiang Mai in 4 hours or can connect to Bangkok overnight. The nearest train station is in Den Chai (15 miles away) and can be reached in 30 minutes aboard blue, fixed-route pickup trucks. Express trains from Den Chai reach Bangok in 7 hours.