Lake Buyan

Lake Buyan is the middle of the three lakes that fill the old volcanic caldera around Bedugul, lying between Lake Bratan and Lake Tamblingan, about 21 km south of Singaraja. At more than 1,000 metres above sea level the air is cool and often misty, and the hills around the water are thick with evergreen forest.

While Bratan draws coachloads to its famous temple, Buyan and its twin, Tamblingan, have stayed largely undeveloped. The shores are marshy in places and fringed with vegetable plots and fishing boats, and the main reasons to come are the scenery, a walk in the forest and the quiet.

A trail of about 4 km follows the southern side of the lake from the lakeside car park, then climbs over the forested ridge to Lake Tamblingan and on towards Munduk. Expect muddy, slippery stretches after rain; a local guide is useful if you plan to walk through to Tamblingan and arrange a pick-up at the far end.

Local fishermen rent out traditional wooden boats, perahu, for fishing or a slow trip across the water. The road along the ridge to the north has viewpoints looking down on both Buyan and Tamblingan, especially fine in the early morning before the clouds roll in. Macaques often wait along this road for handouts; it is better not to feed them.

The dry season, roughly April to October, brings the clearest days and the firmest trails; April, May and October tend to be quieter. Mornings are best year-round, since cloud often settles over the caldera by early afternoon. Bring a light jacket, as the highlands are much cooler than the coast.

The lake is about two hours’ drive north of Denpasar, just off the main road over the mountains to the north coast. The turn-off is a short way north of Bedugul and the Bratan temple, and a side road leads down to the lakeside car park. Most visitors come by hired car or scooter, often on a route that continues to Munduk or down to Lovina.