Siula Grande
Mountain Remote Peruvian peak famous among mountaineers
Glaciated peak in Peru’s Huánuco region, Siula Grande is famous among climbers for technical ice-and-rock routes and for the mountaineering survival story chronicled in Touching the Void.
Siula Grande is a 6,344-metre peak in the Cordillera Huayhuash of central Peru and is widely known in mountaineering circles for its steep faces and technical routes.
Climbers travel to the Huayhuash circuit to approach Siula Grande’s glaciers and technical routes; attempts require high-altitude alpine climbing skills and glacier travel experience. Base camps are reached by multi-day treks through high mountain terrain, and conditions are glaciated and often severe.
The mountain’s west face and surrounding glaciers are of particular interest to technical alpinists and ski-mountaineers, but routes are remote and objective-hazard prone, requiring careful logistics and local permits where applicable.
Local Andean peoples long knew the peaks of the Huayhuash; Western climbing expeditions began in the 20th century. The mountain gained worldwide attention after the 1985 expedition by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates, whose survival story on the west face was published as ‘Touching the Void.’
Siula Grande lies in the Department of Huánuco within the Cordillera Huayhuash of central Peru, amid a cluster of high peaks and glacial lakes. Access is by road and trekking routes from highland villages that serve as logistical bases for climbing the range.
- Elevation and range: Summit elevation is 6,344 metres, and the mountain is a landmark of the Cordillera Huayhuash range in central Peru.
- Notable ascent: The 1985 climbing and survival story of Joe Simpson and Simon Yates on the west face is internationally famous through the book and film 'Touching the Void.'
Tips for Visiting Siula Grande #
- Attempt Siula Grande only in the dry season (roughly May-September) when avalanche and storm risk is lower; the peak is a technical 6,344 m climb that requires prior high‑altitude experience and alpine-grade equipment.
- Acclimatize in Huaraz (or other high-altitude towns) for several days before moving to the Huayhuash approach; many problems on Siula arise from inadequate acclimatization rather than technical difficulty alone.
- Organize a climb or trek with an experienced local guide or licensed outfitter familiar with the Huayhuash logistics, permits and base‑camp approaches-independent attempts into this remote range are logistically demanding and rescue resources are limited.
Best Time to Visit Siula Grande #
For climbing or trekking, aim for the Andean dry season (roughly May-September) when weather is most stable, though summit altitudes remain very cold year-round.
Weather & Climate near Siula Grande #
Siula Grande's climate is classified as Ice Cap - Ice Cap climate with consistently warm temperatures year-round. Temperatures range from -11°C to 5°C. Abundant rainfall (1069 mm/year), wettest in March with a pronounced dry season.
January
January is freezing with highs of 4°C and lows of -6°C. Significant rainfall (154 mm).
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February
February is freezing with highs of 4°C and lows of -6°C. Significant rainfall (166 mm).
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March
March is freezing with highs of 4°C and lows of -6°C. The wettest month with heavy rain (187 mm).
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April
April is freezing with highs of 5°C and lows of -8°C. Significant rainfall (105 mm).
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May
May is freezing with highs of 4°C and lows of -9°C. Moderate rainfall (36 mm).
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June
June is freezing with highs of 4°C and lows of -11°C. The driest month with just 12 mm.
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July
July is the coldest month with highs of 4°C and lows of -11°C. Light rainfall and breezy conditions.
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August
August is the coldest month with highs of 4°C and lows of -11°C. Light rainfall and breezy conditions.
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September
September is freezing with highs of 4°C and lows of -9°C. Moderate rainfall (55 mm).
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October
October is freezing with highs of 4°C and lows of -9°C. Regular rainfall (98 mm).
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November
November is freezing with highs of 5°C and lows of -8°C. Significant rainfall (103 mm).
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December
December is freezing with highs of 5°C and lows of -7°C. Significant rainfall (115 mm).
