Indra Jatra

When: September (movable each year; dates vary according to the lunar calendar).

Where: Kathmandu, Nepal - centred on Basantapur Durbar Square and the medieval lanes of the old city.

Cost: Free to watch public processions; small donations at temples and paid viewing spots may be available.

Don’t miss: The living goddess Kumari’s public appearances, masked dance troupes and the chariot processions through Durbar Square.

Indra Jatra is a centuries-old Newar festival in Kathmandu, Nepal that honours both the rain god (Indra) and the living goddess Kumari, blending Hindu and Buddhist rituals. Its origins lie in medieval Kathmandu Valley court and community rites, preserved in the city’s old neighbourhoods and palaces.

The festival unfolds as a street theatre of chariots, masked dances (including the well-known demon or Lakhey dances), puppet shows and frequent temple ceremonies. Most activity centres on Basantapur Durbar Square, yet processions thread through adjacent squares and narrow streets, creating a loud, close-up, devotional atmosphere rather than a spectator-only parade.

Indra Jatra falls in September, with exact dates shifting each year because the festival follows the lunar calendar (Nepali month Bhadra). The program typically runs several days to about a week, with different neighbourhoods hosting specific rites across that span.

The rhythm builds from ceremonial street preparations and pole-raising to crescendo days when chariots move through the old city and the Kumari makes her public appearances; evenings often feature masked dance performances and improvised street celebrations.

The nearest international airport is Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu; from there take a metered taxi or prearranged transfer into the city. Most festival action is walkable from central neighbourhoods such as Thamel and Ason but expect road closures and heavy pedestrian flows, so arrive at least a day early and secure accommodation well before the festival.

• Dress and behave respectfully; this is primarily a religious festival in Kathmandu, Nepal, so modest clothing and quiet attention inside temple areas are appropriate.
• Expect dense crowds around Basantapur Durbar Square: leave valuables secured, set meeting points with companions and carry a power bank and small water bottle.
• Photography is common but be courteous: ask before photographing priests, devotees or close-ups of the Kumari, and follow any temple signage about restrictions.
• Wear comfortable shoes and be prepared for sudden rain in September; a lightweight rain jacket and sun protection are useful.
• Do not attempt to climb on chariots or touch ritual objects; stay behind barriers and follow instructions from local volunteers or police.
• Book hotels and any guided viewpoints several weeks in advance, and consider hiring a local guide if you want historical context and smoother access to key moments.