Wat Phnom Sampeau Travel Guide

Set high on a hilltop around 15kms to the south of Battambang, the striking temple of Wat Phnom Sampeau is shrouded in legend.

Wat Phnom Sampeau features in the legend of Rumsay Sok, which describes how the hill was formed from the broken hull of a ship. The ship was sunk by a crocodile that was in love with Rumsay Sok. Unfortunately, Rumsay Sok was unable to return the crocodile’s love and when she went to sea with her fiancé, the crocodile sank the ship, drowning the pair.

The legend also states that local villages drained the sea until the crocodile died, and Crocodile Mountain is the representation of the crocodile’s body.

Visitors who wish to visit Wat Phnom Sampeau must climb more than 700 steps to reach the top of the mountain, which can be rather challenging in the full heat of the day. However, the stunning view from the top is more than worth the effort involved. Those in the know may prefer to follow the trail that winds up the mountainside instead as it is a little easier on the legs although rather steep.

During the time of the Khmer Rouge, the pagoda buildings of Wat Phnom Sampeau and the caves beneath were used as a prison and interrogation center which few people left alive. Like many places in Cambodia, this is an area where intense natural beauty and tragedy combine to give visitors food for thought as well as a feast for the eyes.

In brief

What is it? A picturesque hilltop temple near the Khmer killing caves.


Opening hours: 08:30 to 15:30, daily.


Entrance fees: US$2.

Where: Battambang district in the picturesque west of Cambodia.

How to get there: take a taxi south from the city of Battambang (30 minutes), which is a half day journey by bus from the Cambodian capital.